This year, the Health Sciences Authority (HSA) implemented the Asean Cosmetic Directive to monitor and regulate cosmetic products.

The authorities have begun exercising more stringent control on cosmetics brought into Singapore. From Jan 1, companies are required to declare and comply with the safety requirements set by HSA.

Despite the more comprehensive ingredient lists, many people are still clueless about the common ingredients found in skincare and cosmetic products that may cause irritation and acne to sensitive skins.

Cosmetic products are damaging only if the ingredients irritate the skin, said dermatologist Joyce Lim of Joyce Lim Skin and Laser Clinic.

There are two components in cosmetic items: the actives and the base.

The actives are those that purport to do a certain job, for example, anti-ageing, wrinkles or anti-acne. These include ingredients like fruit acids, vitamin C, vitamin A, hydroquinone and argereline.

In the base are ingredients like emollient, preservatives and anti-inflammatory products.

Different people have different tolerance to skincare products, said dermatologist Eileen Tan of Eileen Tan Skin, Laser and Hair Transplant Clinic.

'It isn't necessarily that the most expensive products are the best products,' she said.

'In many instances, the marketing and packaging efforts of a cosmetic product are reflected in the price. The smart consumer will read the ingredient label on the bottle.'

Dr Tan, Dr Lim, Dr Jean Ho, associate consultant dermatologist at the National Skin Centre and Dr Sylvia Ramirez, scientific director at Dermacare, share tips on some common ingredients to look out for in skincare and cosmetic products.

Cleanser

A good facial cleanser helps in the gentle removal of dirt and debris, prevents oil secretion and provides a calm and soothing sensation to the skin.

These are some natural elements usually found in good facial cleansers:

• Caffeine, aloe vera and sucrose which impart the anti-irritation quality to the cleanser
• Glycerin, which acts as a water-binding humectant and promotes moisture retention
• Olive fruit and safflower seed oils which act as emollients to soften skin
• Trehalose, derived from plants and insects, provides moisturising elements
• Linoleic acid found in vegetable oil and barley extract which is a natural repair complex

Toner

A good hydrating toner should be alcohol-free because alcohol can dry out and irritate the skin.

Look for proven water-binding ingredients (so-called humectants), such as hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, panthenol or glycerin. Excellent natural humectants also include tamarind-seed or honey.

Other ingredients that provide other important benefits are anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants and smoothing ingredients.

A hydrating toner will saturate thirsty skin with water without adding any oil.

Moisturiser

An essential first line of defence against dry, itchy skin is a good moisturiser.

Those with oily skin should opt for an oil-free moisturiser. Those with drier skin should choose a moisturiser that contains oil.

The lack of moisture in skin can contribute to a loss of elasticity, wrinkles and a generally aged appearance of the skin.

Apart from the moisturising effect of creams, said Dr Ho, pay attention to active ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C, as these have been showed to decrease fine wrinkles in the long term.

Foundation

Most foundations contain talc, which is derived from asbestos, a matter found in construction material.

Talc, known for clogging up pores and causing acne, may also be linked to cancer, although studies are still inconclusive.

Also, most standard make-up contains perfume and dyes. These artificial ingredients could cause allergic reactions.

Eye shadow

Most eye cosmetics are usually safe when used properly, said Dr Ramirez.

In Singapore, the use of colour additives in eye make-up is strictly regulated.

Some general safety tips for using eye cosmetics:

• Stop any eye cosmetics that cause irritation
• Don't share your cosmetics
• Avoid colour additives that are not approved for use in the area of the eye, such as kohl, which consists salts of heavy metals such as lead.

Lipstick

Women who apply lipstick on a daily basis ingest about eight tubes of lipstick a year.

This is a startling fact considering that 61 per cent of lipsticks retailed contains detectable traces of lead, according to a study by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.

Lipstick is usually made from a combination of pigments, oils, waxes and emollients. But these are not necessarily harmful.

Did you know that several plants, insects and animals contribute to making a stick of lipstick?

Some of the ingredients in lipsticks that could cause allergic reactions are:

• Carmine: Derived from the shell of the female cochineal insect (beetle), it is used to produce a red colouring and may cause allergic reactions.
• FD & C colourings: Derived from coal tar (petroleum), some colours are believed to be carcinogenic. They could increase the risk of getting cancer.
• Lanolin is a product from the oil glands of sheep. It can cause allergic reactions and can be harmful to ingest if it contains pesticide residue.
• Petrolatum: Derived from petroleum, this ingredient can cause allergic reactions and, ironically, can dry the lips, requiring the user to apply even more lipstick.

Is natural best?

A common myth is that if the label states '100 per cent natural' or '100 per cent organic', this must be the best for the skin.

'Poison ivy is 100 per cent natural, but look at what a nasty rash it can cause,' said Dr Ho.

On the contrary, some of the safest and most effective products are born in a research laboratory, under a controlled environment, and with repeated testing, she said.

These synthetic products are superior in the consistency of standards, hygiene and low likelihood of contaminants.

So buying products from reputable (not necessarily branded), time-tested brands is a sure guarantee to the safety of the product.

However, there are botanical cosmeceuticals that have various functions such as anti-inflammatory ones, for example, green tea, ginkgo biloba, or photoageing prevention such as soy and grape seeds, said Dr Tan.

This article was first published in Mind Your Body, The Straits Times on Mar 12, 2008.