I refer to the article, 'How safe is your make-up' (Mind Your Body, March 12).

I would like to thank you for taking the time to explain the new regulations to your readers and give them tips on what is safe and what to avoid.

However, I think it contains certain statements that are not correct.

TALC: It is not derived from asbestos; it's a mineral (like the ones you seem to favour when talking about 'mineral make-up'.

Cosmetic talc is safe as evaluated by a panel of specialists (toxicologists) in meetings organised by the US FDA (Food and Drug Administration) both in 1994 and 2000. The conclusions of the panel are clear and sound: Cosmetic grade talc is safe as used.

There are no valid studies that link talc to cancer: the only one published has been withdrawn by the authors as there was a flaw in their study.

Talc does not clog the pores: the size of the talc particles is bigger than the pores and the pores have a positive pressure, that is they have a tendency of pushing anything towards the outside.

Yes, acne is caused by clogged pores, but this is the result of excess oil production (puberty) or irregularity of cell shedding (adult acne); talc does not cause acne.

Talc is available in different size particles, the smaller ones are used in compact make-up like eye shadows, the bigger ones are used in loose powder as they are not breathable; and they are also obtained by crushing little rocks. Talc is the lightest and softest material (hardness of 1 on a 10 scale).

FD&C colouring: These are synthetic materials that have been evaluated by the US FDA (each batch made has to be analysed) and deemed safe to be used in Food, Drug and Cosmetic (FD&C). Colours safety is evaluated regularly by scientific committees like the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Products or the Cosmetic Ingredient Review the US and these experts reviewing all the scientific data are telling the industry that those on the lists are safe to be used in cosmetics. I am not aware of any study linking colour used to cancer.

Lanolin: Yes, unpurified lanolin contains proteins that can cause allergies. The cosmetic industry has long ago exclusively used purified lanolin which is safe and not allergenic.

Petrolatum: This ingredient is used by the medical community to test other ingredients for their allergy potential.
Never have allergies to petrolatum been reported. It forms a film on the skin/lips and helps moisturise it, not dry it.

Hydroquinone: It can cause cancer and create skin reactions especially when combined with sun exposure. Hydroquinone is not allowed in cosmetic skin care.

I would like to again thank you for the information given to your readers, rest assured that the Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association of Singapore (CTFAS) is always available to provide safety information about cosmetic products and that its members have made a pledge of ethics and regulatory compliance (which includes product safety).

- ALAIN KHAIAT
President, CTFAS
Senior International Expert on cosmetic safety, efficacy and quality with the United Nations, the European Union and the World Ban.

MYB replies: The information was derived from certified dermatologists. Thank you for your clarifications on the safety regulations.

This article was first published in Mind Your Body, The Straits Times on Mar 19, 2008.