HOW many shades of grey can there possibly be in this world? When your world is ck Calvin Klein, the answer is likely to be: as many as your mind can imagine. And so it was that its Fall/Winter 2008 collection, as unveiled in Tokyo two weeks ago, was awash in a sea of sombre hues in a fashionably bare design studio tucked away in Shinagawa-ku.

Taking centre stage in the specially converted lounge space was a single rotating platform on which the models would pose, stock-still like statues, as guests gaped at the austere yet fluid lines created by design director Kevin Carrigan. Or, as he described it in his own words: 'Architecture and construction really informed my Fall 2008 line. I focused on proportion with an emphasis on the linear and the circular - funnel necks became very important. I also mixed industrial and military influences while highlighting texture and structure within a shadowy grey palette. I also often take inspiration from the work of designers like Eames, Neutra and Judd.'

(From left) Creative director Kevin Carrigan, Japanese actress Rinko Kikuchi and Tom Murry, president and COO of Calvin Klein Inc.

The show is part of a series of global events that the company has held in various cities considered crucial in its marketing efforts. Besides cities such as New York and London, Asia has been growing in significance for Calvin Klein. Hence, 'we've held these events in cities like Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Seoul', said Tom Murry, president and chief operating officer of Calvin Klein Inc who flew to Tokyo for the occasion.

Calvin Klein Inc is a wholly owned subsidiary of Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation, generating an annual turnover of US$1.5 billion. ck Calvin Klein - comprising ready to wear, accessories and others - accounts for US$500 million of that figure. With 25 per cent of Calvin Klein's revenues coming from Asia, it's no wonder that it's taking pains to grow its market share in the region, especially as traditional Western markets slow down.

'China is the fastest growing market for us, especially Beijing and Shanghai - right now, we already have 62 free-standing stores throughout the country,' said Mr Murry. And while apparel is still the biggest money-earner (accounting for 80 per cent of sales), the company has also seen strong growth in other areas such as accessories, soft home furnishings and most recently, ck Calvin Klein's beauty line.

'We launched it in the fourth quarter of last year in Europe, and it got a very good response,' said Mr Murry. 'Now, we're launching it
in Tokyo for the first time.'

Tokyo has always been a strong market for the company with US$250 million in sales annually, and following the trend of major luxury labels opening their own flagship stores in Tokyo, Calvin Klein is looking to do the same next year to house its collections. 'We're looking for a location right now, and we should be opening in spring or fall of 2009.'

While Tokyo and China are the big markets for the company, Singapore isn't to be neglected either, he said. 'It's an important market for us because our biggest partner, Club 21, is based there.'

That said, ck Calvin Klein contributes US$13 million a year, which is certainly no small change.

And if the charcoal military look takes off here, that figure may well soar too.

This article was first published in The Business Times on May 31st, 2008.