By Karen Tee

Mica, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide - are these the metallic-sounding stuff you'd like to slap on your face?

Yet, in the past year, women have been taking to mined magic - in the form of mineral make-up.

Top beauty editors from Allure to Vogue and make-up junkies are touting mineral make-up as the cosmetic world's latest miracle.

And mineral make-up, which has made its way here the last year, is selling fast at stores from Watsons to Robinsons and at some skin clinics.

There are L'Oreal Paris with its True Match Mineral foundation, Canadian make-up giant M.A.C with its Mineralize collection of foundations and colours and dermatologically approved YoungBlood Mineral Cosmetics with a full range of face paint, just to name a few.

With prices starting from about $25 for a loose powder mineral foundation from a 'masstige' brand like L'Oreal and about $65 for a 'doctor-approved' brand, there's mineral make-up to suit every budget.

Just what is the appeal of mined magic?

First up, the ingredients, say dermatologists and beauty gurus: Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides and mica - mined from the earth and finely crushed and milled - have natural sunblock and skin-soothing properties.

They do not contain chemical preservatives, dye, oils or fragrances, which are common skin irritants. So, they are the dermatologist's choice for people with sensitive or acne-prone skin.

Patients who have undergone treatments like laser treatments, microdermabrasion or chemical peels may also be asked to switch to mineral make-up.

Dr Jean Ho, associate consultant dermatologist at the National Skin Centre, says: 'Mineral make-up is inert, so it won't react with the skin and cause sensitisation or irritation. So, I'd recommend it to individuals with sensitive skin or who are allergic to chemicals.'

And because the mineral particles are large enough to sit on the surface of the skin, mineral make-up won't clog pores.

RESURGENCE AHEAD

While the mineral make-up industry has been dominated by dermatologist-endorsed brands like YoungBlood and GloMinerals, mainstream brands have begun catching up with the cult favourites.

M.A.C was first off the block with two types of mineral foundations launched in February last year.

This year, L'Oreal Paris and American-based Revlon have also trotted out their own versions of mineral make-up. And they're planning on bringing out additions like mineral-based eye colour and blush to their lines within the next few months.

Customers keen on trying out mineral make-up have been snapping up these new releases.

Revlon's ColourStay mineral foundation sold out when it was launched in Australia early this year.

M.A.C says that sales for its Mineralize Satin Finish and Mineralize Skin Finish Natural have been brisk and customers have been 'drawn by the mineral content'.

It will also be expanding its mineral range with eyeshadows and blush compacts next month.

But mineral make-up is not new. The ancient Egyptians used a cosmetic called mesdemet made of copper and lead ore to colour their eyes.

The earliest mineral cosmetic products rolled out commercially in the United States in the 1970s as an alternative to the traditional ranges available then, many chemical-based and inappropriate for sensitive or acne-prone skin.

But the older formulations of mineral make-up had an ashy undertone, which could make users look washed out and, worse, grimy.

Fast forward 30 years: newer versions have found a way around yesterday's muddy colours to achieve a more aesthetically pleasing effect.

Gunther Scherz, managing director of Metamorphosis Holdings, which distributes celebrity favourite GloMinerals in Singapore, says that the technology in processing the minerals has improved over the last five years.

This means that the texture and colour ranges are much better.

But before you rush out to buy or try, consider this: There's a difference between pharmaceutical grade mineral make-up and mineral make-up from the mass brands.

Dr Sylvia Ramirez, scientific and medical director of Dermacare Laser and Skin Care Clinics of Singapore, says: 'The brands that are available only at clinics are likely to have an emphasis on skin health.'

Brands like YoungBlood and GloMinerals fall in this category.

Preparation methods may also differ, she adds, with possibly fewer skin irritants in medical or professional grade products. For instance, the pharmaceutical-grade variety contains no talc, which is believed to be comedogenic (clogs pores).

So here's the bottom line: As with any product, read the fine print for the ingredients.

As far as one beauty writer goes, mineral is the 'only type of foundation that I will use on my super sensitive skin'.

This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times on July 10, 2008.