They were Singapore's pioneer crop of designers who ruled the local fashion scene. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, designers like Sylvia Lian, Peter Kor, Tan Yoong and Thomas Wee were stars in an era veteran insiders affectionately call 'the glamour years' of Singapore fashion.

Together with other designers such as Esther Tay and David Wang, they frequently won awards and had their own boutiques.

Some were even notching up close to $1 million in annual sales until the Asian financial crisis hit in 1997.

Then mid-priced, trend-driven international labels entered the market and priced the local labels out of the competition.

Up till last year, Tan, 56, was the only one of the four who was still designing clothes for a living - his Tan Yoong boutique in Lucky Plaza has been selling couture-inspired collections and bridal gowns since 1983.

The others turned to producing commercial designs for the mass market, retail consultancy or teaching.

Now, thanks to initiatives by Singapore Fashion Week (SFW) or simply an irrepressible itch to return to the design scene, Lian, Kor and Wee are staging comebacks.

SFW is an annual trade event that gives international fashion buyers access to design talents in Singapore and the region.

Lian, 54, designer of labels Alkeme and Santorini, simply thought it was time to 'express my belief in what a local designer can do', while Kor, 55, designer of Etsu, is back in the game because he is 'getting overwhelming support from young women who've never heard of me as a designer'.

Wee, 59, is coming out of retirement to unveil his comeback collection at Singapore Fashion Festival (SFF) in March because 'I have been watching the local fashion shows in the past few years and everything is so boring'.

SFF is SFW's glitzier cousin, launched by the Singapore Tourism Board to position the country as a regional fashion retail hub. The annual event aims to get festival-goers to buy what they see on the runway.

The designers struck deals with local and international buyers at SFW's Access USA programme, which woos American and European retailers, last October. There, 30 designers from Singapore and around the region confirmed $1 million worth of sales orders for their spring/summer 2008 collections.

Among them, Lian's deals alone accounted for $720,000. Her labels Alkeme and Santorini are now retailing in department stores in Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand and in a boutique in New York. In March, they will also be sold at Isetan Scotts here.

Yes, old is now gold.

Speaking about these four designers, Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts lecturer Vik Lim says: 'Design-wise, everyone has progressed to doing something different and more exciting.

'These are experienced designers we're talking about. We can expect nothing less than good cutting and fabric from them.'

At SFF in March, all eyes will be on Wee and Tan, who have not staged a runway show in at least 10 years.

Tan, who is renowned for being media-shy, will unveil his collection in a show to be sponsored by Lee Hwa Jewellery.

Expect lots of colour, exquisite finishing and perhaps even Cristobal Balenciaga-inspired designs he sketched as a teenager.

Wee, to be sponsored by L'Oreal Professionnel, will show 30 to 45 outfits.

He says: 'Fabric will come alive when worn on the body and outfits will be like sculptures.'

Urban gets exclusive sneak peaks into the collections of Wee and Tan and features new designs by Lian and Kor.

THOMAS WEE, 59
Fashion designer and fashion design lecturer at Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts

It took him long enough but after a decade-long break, fashion designer Thomas Wee will return with a big bang.

On April 1, he will stage his first fashion show in more than 10 years at the eighth annual Singapore Fashion Festival (SFF) to be held at The Tent at Ngee Ann City.

Silk taffeta low-backed 'sack' dress

'I know this isn't very modest, but I want to show people what nice design is,' says the design doyen.

'I think it's time the old guards came back to lead the fashion scene and give hope to the younger brood.'

Born to a medical dispenser father and a Shanghainese tailor mother, Wee used to design three labels - Thomas Wee, Mixables and Luxe - and was dubbed 'King of the Jacket' for his immaculate suit tailoring.

He focused on high fashion, selling clothes for $800 to $10,000 apiece at his Thomas Wee boutique in Far East Plaza until the economic downturn in the mid-1990s forced him to close shop.

He has been a part-time lecturer in fashion design at Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts since 1999, designing only 'one or two' outfits for private customers by special request.

He says he may return to full-time design, but laments that he doesn't have 'that many years left' in the business.

Expect something different for his SFF show: There won't be a single bead or a stitch of embroidery on the clothes.

He adds: 'If I could use just two words to describe the collection, it is 'maximum minimalism'.'

In 2008, some dreams and goals I wish to achieve include...

Nothing really ambitious. I hope to be able to sell my clothes in New York and Tokyo after showing at SFF. I'm counting on buyers from those cities being present at the shows. The Singapore market is very small and I don't see myself in it for that many more years. I just like to amuse myself making beautiful clothes, staging a show and selling them abroad. The clothes will be top of the line, of course.

Oversized silk blouse with silk organza trompe l'oeil collar and wool gabardine skirt-cullotte

Last year, I was most proud of...

Nothing, really. I was hoping to do a show at SFW last October but I was disappointed with the organisers, who gave me the cold shoulder. I felt that they were more interested in promoting young talents and not the 'old hags'. It amazes me that people today have heard of my name but not seen my work.

If there was one thing I could change about 2007, it would be...

Having more time for myself and to travel. I would have liked to visit Paris again. I was so busy with work that I managed to go only to Bangkok. But it's interesting there. When I go on holiday, I have to educate myself and know what's going on and not just eat, sleep and shop - I can do that at home.

What are your hopes for the Singapore fashion scene in 2008 and beyond?

Designers and retailers have to be more serious about what they sell. Look at Japanese products, which are so well-made. We don't have anything here that is comparable in make, design, image and especially not in branding. Everyone is happy just to have a line of clothing and sell it in a shop that looks like a provision shop.

Which young Singaporean/ Singapore-based design talent will you be looking out for in 2008?

Sven Tan of alldressedup. He's a very good designer. I've seen his work since he was a student at Lasalle. He's very creative, has good taste and has lots of energy and ideas. He's technically capable and understands colours and fabrics. If he designs his own label one day, he will still be able to sell well. That's what I want to see.

SYLVIA LIAN, 54
Designer of labels Alkeme and Santorini

Since giving her eponymous label a rest 10 years ago, Singaporean designer Sylvia Lian has been busy running Globalifestyle.

The company, with offices here and in Malaysia, sources, produces and designs in-house brands such as Martina Pink for stores like department store Tangs.

Cotton viscose brocade low-backed dress

Now, the mother of two is back to front her own labels with Santorini and Alkeme, which were launched at Singapore Fashion Week (SFW) in October last year.

There, both labels clinched about $720,000 worth of deals with overseas and local retailers.

That figure alone accounts for some 70 per cent of the event's $1 million in deals.

Santorini is a casual label with cotton, silk or linen clothes that cost between $79 and $299.

Alkeme, a higher-end brand, specialises in clothes either with bias cuts or are seamless. Prices range from $300 to $700.

Both labels are now retailing in department stores in Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand and in a boutique in New York. They will also be sold at Isetan Scotts here from March.

Local multi-label boutique Tyan has also expressed interest in stocking her next collection.

The designer, who made her fashion debut in 1993 when she started her eponymous label in Tangs Studio, tells Urban of her comeback: 'I just felt like it was time to show off home-grown brands for the export market.

Silk satin bias-cut 1930s-style hipster dress

'Sylvia Lian the brand was my expression of how women should look then and Alkeme is created to express my belief in what a local designer can do.'

In 2008, some dreams and goals I wish to achieve include...

Spending lots and lots of time with my family, meeting the Dalai Lama, Sudan-born supermodel Alek Wek and British chef Jamie Oliver and adopting a whole village in India. I also want to gain access to China. It's a big market and I want to deal with economies of scale instead of the usual one or two shops. It will be a big leap forward.

Last year, I was most proud of...

Designing my office in Petaling Jaya, Malaysia, from scratch. I've never had an office that I liked very much. It was always like moving into someone else's renovated house. For this office, I have high ceilings, which I love, glass panels instead of the usual brick walls, a raw cement floor and a library full of books. It's exactly the way I want it to look.

If there was one thing I could change about 2007, it would be...

So many little things. Every day I tell myself, 'How I wish this or that wasn't like that'. Well, I have a 24-year-old son studying photography in Australia and an 18-year-old daughter studying product design in England. I wish I could have spent more time with them - that's my wish every day. But I don't regret any major thing that I did.

What are your hopes for the Singapore fashion scene in 2008 and beyond?

I hope to see more local designers take their collections to the next level and price them properly, instead of selling $59 items. Designers in Thailand, India, Vietnam, Malaysia, Hong Kong and China all sell their designs at premium prices. They believe in themselves, their countries support them and the local celebrities promote their clothes with pride.

Which young Singaporean/ Singapore-based design talent will you be looking out for in 2008?

I have been away from the scene for so long that I have no idea.

PETER KOR, 55
Designer of label Etsu

You could say he stumbled back to the design world by accident.

Wool houndstooth strapless empire dress with orchid embroidery

In 2006, Peter Kor was in his design studio in Purvis Street working with some fabric when he accidentally ripped it. The result was a 'wonderful raw edge' that he later parlayed into a semi-sheer chiffon blouse that formed part of the collection he showed at Singapore Fashion Week (SFW) that year.

Thus his new label Etsu, the Japanese translation of the Chinese character 'yue', meaning happiness, was born.

But his success is by no means a fluke.

Until now, those looking to score pieces from Kor's exquisite collection have had to look him up in his studio, as pieces from his last collection were made-to-order only.

The immaculately tailored ball skirts cost about $500, shirts were around $200 and dresses were about $400.

Now, thanks to deals struck with buyers during SFW 2007, his new collection is stocked in home-grown department store Tangs.

He says he may either open a store or sell his clothes at a multi-label boutique soon.

'I can't be selling everything at department store prices.'

Kor started out as a visual merchandising stylist in a local fashion boutique in 1974.

He set up his own design company, Bianca Singapore, in 1976, which designed and supplied in-house womenswear labels to department store Isetan.

Wool houndstooth strapless dress with side ruching

He also started the womenswear label Marissa in 1997, which still retails - although someone else designs it now - in Metro today.

Of his comeback, Kor, who strongly believes in blending the best of East and West in his designs, says: 'I want people to look at Etsu and immediately say, 'That's from Asia'.'

In 2008, some dreams and goals I wish to achieve include...

Interpreting the three big trends of 2008. They are sheer layering, tailoring and florals. I have always loved the challenge involved in layering summer clothes, so this trend will give me the opportunity to indulge. Tailoring has always been my strong suit so I'm glad that it's finally making a comeback. My focus this time will be on the short sleeve and strong shoulder. Florals will be a real test of one's taste in print and is therefore tricky, but challenging.

Last year, I was most proud of...

At this point of my life, I just want to produce good work that I am happy with and that consumers can relate to. I have no dreams, no goals. I just want to enjoy life.

If there was one thing I could change about 2007, it would be...

Nothing.

What are your hopes for the Singapore fashion scene in 2008 and beyond?

None in particular, except that consumers, retailers and the media could give more support to local designers. I also wish that we can be a more gracious society.

Which young Singaporean/Singapore- based design talent will you be looking out for in 2008?

I am afraid I am not very aware of what is going on, so it will be unfair of me to comment.

TAN YOONG, 56
Designer of made-to-order line Tan Yoong

He is Singapore's most enduring fashion designer.

Since he launched his eponymous label in 1983, he has shown no signs of slowing down, still selling made-to-order couture- inspired clothes out of his atelier in Lucky Plaza.

Ombre silk chiffon one-shoulder asymmetrical dress with beaded starfish brooches

Trained as a fine artist at the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts in the late 1970s, he worked in a few advertising firms for several years before launching his line of luxury clothes and bridalwear.

His bridal gowns became de rigueur for tai tais and white-collar women alike when it was reported that the daughter-in-law of the late President Ong Teng Cheong wore one of his creations at her wedding.

Today, Tan still sells his one-off bridal gowns for at least $8,000 each.

He is among the 41 designers worldwide who have been invited by the United Nations to represent their respective countries at its inaugural World Fashion Awards at the World Fashion Week. The date for the event, to be held in Hollywood, has yet to be announced.

He will present parts of the collection that he will show at Singapore Fashion Festival in March.

Local fashionistas will get first dibs on the gowns, which promise to be colourful and rich in detail, then.

For now, Urban gives you an exclusive sneak peak at two such outfits.

In 2008, some dreams and goals I wish to achieve include...

That the World Fashion Awards, which has been postponed indefinitely by organisers since June 2007, will really happen this year.

Pleated silk chiffon bustier gown

I also want to sell my high fashion to the world on the Internet or even to show seasonal collections online. That will really be a dream come true.

Last year, I was most proud of...

Being selected to represent Singapore for the first-ever World Fashion Awards.

If there was one thing I could change about 2007, it would be...

Nothing. I never look back. No matter what happens, I take it as it is and try to do better the next time. Going forward, I wish I'll have more time to go to the gym and learn to swim so that when I travel and go to the beach or a posh hotel's pool, I can show off a more streamlined body.

What are your hopes for the Singapore fashion scene in 2008 and beyond?

Singapore definitely has many good designers, but its market is too small to afford them. Those who have made good internationally will eventually be based overseas. Once they come back to Singapore, they will lose their international appeal. I hope that one day, the word 'Singapore' will actually add prestige to a local designer label.

Which young Singaporean/Singapore- based design talent will you be looking out for in 2008?

Every now and then, I see women wearing interesting pieces by local talents and I've been very impressed.

Some of the more established names, like GG<5, really have attained the international standard in terms of design. So does alldressedup, of course.

Photographer: ALAN LIM; Stylist: VIK LIM; Hair: IVY TAN, Phase Hairdressing; Make-up: YUAN SNG (tel: 9695-0673), using Cyber Colours from Sa Sa Cosmetics; Model: OLYA, Ave; Location: Shangri-La Suite at Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore