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Tue, Aug 05, 2008
AsiaOne
Keeping the Tibetan culture alive

Text and photographs by Juliana Foo


Tourism is one of McLeod Ganj's major industries but it has in no way tainted the area's rich Tibetan culture.

Also known as 'Little Lhasa', this tranquil suburb sits amidst the clouds - 10 kilometres above Dharamsala, the Kangra district of Himachal Pradesh, India.


Mani prayer wheel in the Main Temple: Turning the wheel once clockwise earns merit equal to the recitation mantras inside the wheels.

Travel agencies exist alongside shops selling handicrafts and food along the narrow streets; saffron-robed monks and nuns are a common sight, as are tourists.

Many journey here to meditate, visit the headquarters of the Dalai Lama's residence and government, and to savour a taste of how Tibetans live in India, away from their homeland.

Filled with pride and a strong sense of home, the over 8,000 monks, nuns and common Tibetans, who trekked across the Himalayan mountains to escape into India, continue to keep the culture alive in this utopia.

It was not difficult to reach 'Little Lhasa' - a seven-hour bus ride from Jammu (next to Kashmir) to Dharamsala and another bus for the second-leg to McLeod Ganj.

'Little Lhasa' is a safe place to wander around on foot and my three-day stay filled me with much compassion and awe.

I saw monks and nuns visiting the main temple, and tourists who 'immersed' themselves in the holy city, soaking in its sights and teachings.

Many cafes and restaurants cater to tourists so you will find Indian, Chinese and Western cuisine alongside the usual Tibetan fare. But do not expect any five-star hotels or rowdy bars here, although comfortable lodging can be easily found.


It is common to see images of the 14th Dalai Lama displayed in houses and restaurants, and sold in various shops.

It is a haven for those seeking higher spiritual learning and a quiet break for those travelling around India. No incessant horning and persistent touts.

Sightseeing can be easily covered in two days, navigating from the bus stand which links to notable attractions. Besides checking out the Main Temple, there is the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives, and the Tibet Museum.

Do also take a nice stroll to Bhagsu where there is a temple and waterfall, and even a forlorn Church of St. John.

The primary mode of travel is by foot so it is easy to see people, young and old, sitting by the road chatting, some turning prayers wheels in town, and monks and nuns sitting in tea houses or even using the internet.

Shopping is great if you like woven textiles, silver and chunky jewellery. There are also various Tibetan artefacts and religious flags, wheels, and rosary beads for sale at the street bazaars.

If you are lucky, you will meet His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama during one of his teachings, which is attended by people from all over the world. I had the good fortune of attending one and I found the Dalai Lama to be a charismatic speaker and inspirational leader.

There are no references to China or propaganda to support Tibetans, but he spoke of spiritual teachings and spent hours being with his people.

Listening to people chanting mantras, drinking butter tea and interacting with the locals, I witnessed first-hand the respect and love the Tibetans have for their spiritual leader, and their heartfelt yearning to return home.

To see more of Juliana's photos from 'Little Lhasa', click here.



"Juliana Foo, 35, is a lover of life and an avid traveller. She enjoys meeting people, learning different cultures, exploring hideaways and is always open to new experiences. Travelling enriches her life and she finds pure joy being on the go.

Ideal holidays are planned with a fluid itinerary with unplanned adventures that throws one off slightly but always filled with surprises and memorable times with the locals and seeing places that would never have been part of the journey. She seeks out the paths less trodden and finds public transport and local haunts the best ways to immerse in a culture. Juliana seeks pleasure in sun-drenched holidays in Thailand and Bali, exotic explorations in Morocco and India and savours the lifestyle of England where she stayed to travel around Europe and worked for two years.

She is happy to sit and watch the world go by, trek uphill to see ancient monuments or to simply walk around new places. Her passion for intricate details in architecture and design has brought her to some of the world's greatest monuments such as the Taj Mahal, Church of Seville and Angkor Wat. Her favourite places so far are Marrakesh (Morocco) for its sights, sounds and smells; and most recently the trip to Dharamsala (India) for its spiritual presence and unique position as a home for Tibetans in exile.

Juliana hopes to travel to South America, especially the spectacular lost city of Manchu Picchu, South Africa and Egypt. She is passionate about travelling, reading, photography and enjoys the path of discovery. When not on one of her overseas sojourns, Juliana is a marketing professional and freelance writer."

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