Bordeaux is the world's most important wine region. In particular, red Bordeaux - often described as having a rich blackcurrant note, medium- or full-bodied flavours and absolutely seductive aromas - has placed the south-west region of France in a different wine stratosphere altogether
Not that you would notice it when you first arrive. City centre and huge chateaus aside, Bordeaux is not a landscape you would describe as lush and pretty. For the longest time, it was an industrial port closely associated with tin, lead, sugar and slave trades.
But thanks to French emperor Napoleon's request for a listing of Bordeaux's top wines for an exhibition, the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification was created in 1855. Over the centuries, its estates have seen massive swings in their fortunes and a succession of great vintages in the 1980s sealed the region's sterling reputation.
Thanks to Unesco naming it a World Heritage Site last year, there is a distinctive buzz and much Gallic pride in the air. The city centre's oldest quarters and monuments have been spruced up, and centuries of grime and neglect have been removed to reveal ornate mediaeval churches, Baroque facades and other architectural delights.
With a new tram system meandering through its ancient streets, Bordeaux is literally moving with the times.
However, this jump in tourist numbers means getting in and out of the city centre can be a pain. Traffic in certain parts of the city can slow to an absolute standstill. I would not recommend staying in the city centre for the entire trip.
It is better to base yourself just outside the centre, so you are near enough to pop in quickly and it allows you to reach the wine regions easily.
Chateau Grattequina (room rates start from ¥159 or S$310) is an excellent choice to consider, particularly for couples and small groups.
This spectacular building, which dates back to 1872, was developed in 2004 and offers 10 modern and spacious rooms. Its brand of French flair is laidback yet seductive, and the setting is elegant and serene.
Personal touches can be found throughout, such as a table made with planks from the original manor and curtains sewn by proprietor Colette Hue. Wi-Fi is free and an Internet station is available around the clock. There is also an outdoor pool.
Chateau Grattequina, located just outside the city centre in Bordeaux city, France. A suitable hotel for couples and small groups, the spectacular building, which dates back to 1872, was developed in 2004, offers 10 modern and spacious rooms as well as an outdoor pool. There is also free Wi-Fi and an Internet station is available around the clock.
If you prefer to park yourself dead smack in wine country, you cannot go wrong with Les Sources de Caudalie (room rates start from ¥200). It is the first and last word in glamour, with five categories of luxury rooms to choose from. Surrounded by the vineyards and forests of Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte and set amid perfectly manicured ponds and gardens, it is a firm favourite with international jet-setters.
The hotel offers a complete package with a bar aptly called French Paradox, two restaurants and cigar bar to boot. But its piece de resistance is its Vinotherapie spa, the world's first wine- themed spa, where you can order a crushed Cabernet scrub or a Merlot wrap.
As I travel across the various regions in Bordeaux, it becomes strikingly clear that nowhere else on Earth is agricultural dirt more worshipped, fawned over or expensive. And in true French style, they have coined a special term for it - terroir.
Loosely meaning 'sense of place', it is a magical, almost philosophical, word that all Bordeaux producers use to sum up the total effect of the local climate, soil composition and topography on the wines.
Chateau d'Yquem, a vineyard in Bordeaux, France. Wines from this legendary vineyard are prized for their complexity, concentration and sweetness.
Indeed, the different regions of Bordeaux - Medoc, Pessac-Leognan, Graves, Sauternes, Entre-Deux-Mers, Bourg, Blaye, Fronsac, Pomerol and St Emilion - all profess to have unique characteristics.
The only realistic and cost-effective way to do a serious wine tour is to rent a car. Having done numerous wine tours elsewhere, I was surprised by how much more dispersed the vineyards in Bordeaux are.
For vinophiles, North Medoc will be the first port of call. Of the 'Big Five' First Growths, three of them - Chateau Latour, Lafite-Rothschild and Mouton- Rothschild - are all up here.
All the properties are fabulously immaculate, you half expect workers to be caressing individual bunches, serenading them with love songs to coax a fabulous wine from them.
But do not expect to just drop in for a visit as the top chateaus do not stoop as low as to welcome unexpected visitors. But with other wine regions in the world rising in influence, Bordeaux is warming up to strangers. Make an appointment via e-mail and you can easily secure a free visit and tasting. Why, you can even get a tour in English now.
Be sure to book your visit way in advance but forget about getting one during harvest time (usually October). While summer sounds like a great idea, you may end up seeing more tourists than chateaus. Go in late spring instead when the weather is mild and relatively dry. The best month is May.
St Emilion, a beautiful mediaeval town with hilly cobbled streets running through limestone buildings, is a must- visit. And a visit to this picturesque town is not complete without a trip to its famed underground cathedral.
Originally a cave where the hermit Emilion settled in the 8th century, it was enlarged over the next 500 years to become the world's largest monolithic cathedral.
Be warned that the area's popularity also means it can be absolutely swamped with tourists during peak periods.
stlife@sph.com.sg
Jessica Leow is a freelance writer.
Air France flies daily to Bordeaux. For details, go to www.airfrance.sg
