>> ASIAONE / TRAVEL / PLACES & INTERESTS / INTERESTS / NATURE / STORY
Thu, Aug 21, 2008
The Straits Times
Christmas corals

By Deepika Shetty

It is a tiny dot in the Indian Ocean that is barely known and even less explored. But photojournalists Shaun and Beth Tierney say Christmas Island, a small Australian territory, north-west of Perth, is one of nature's most impressive feats.

Based in London, the husband and-wife team first visited the island for a diving trip in 2005. They were so smitten by the natural wonders of the island that they returned several times and penned a book titled The Essential Christmas Island Travel Guide.

It takes a direct flight from either Kuala Lumpur or Perth to discover this island full of intriguing wildlife. You can see everything from the annual red crab migration to glorious deserted beaches where the only footprints in the sand are those made by nesting turtles.

Also called the Galapagos of the Indian Ocean, the island has a unique amalgam of cultures and history. These elements, together with the diving, make a visit to Christmas Island a truly unusual travel experience, say the Tierneys.

Here are their tips on getting the most out of a visit there.

Take a walking tour

With a history of European discovery and colonisation, this tiny island is a multicultural society. It has about 1,500 inhabitants made up of three main ethnic groups: Chinese, Malay and European. You can discover this diverse past by walking from one end of the coastal town to the other.

Start at the idyllic Flying Fish cove, with its colonial mansion hovering over the bay, then pass the Malay village and the loading dock to discover the Christmas Island phosphate mines. Next, walk through the old European Settlement and stop at the Christmas Island Visitor Centre for information on its colonial history before heading on to Gaze Point for a breathtaking view of the ocean.

Explore the temples and cemeteries

There is not much in the way of artistic achievement on the island, no world-famous museums or art galleries. But you can see some fabulous Asian architecture in the various temples and cemeteries.

There are both Taoist and Buddhist temples, ranging from the tiniest of shrines in isolated locations to the important Guan Yin Monastery complex in Gaze Road.

Head out of the Settlement in Golf Course Road to find Mar Chor Nui Nui, perhaps the most stunningly located Taoist temple sitting on the edge of a cliff. At South Point, Soon Tien Kong is the island's oldest and most important temple. Religious festivals are held here.

Discover the ocean

The tip of a volcanic mountain born of an eruption some 60 million years ago, the island is ringed by a narrow coral reef. 'Within just a few metres of the shore, it suddenly plunges to unimaginable depths,' says Mrs Tierney.

The colourful corals that encrust the shallower waters benefit from strong sunlight and deep-water upwellings that supply rich nutrients. The diving is amazing, but even snorkellers on the surface can see way down into the depths, admiring fish such as tuna, trevally, barracuda and reef sharks.


Endemic birds such as the Christmas Island Goshawk (above) attract birdwatchers from around the world

Keep cool in the rainforest

Christmas Island has an incredible number of unique land species too, both flora and fauna.

Most of its ecosystem remains intact despite the past mining activities. The compact size of the island makes it easy to get in touch with nature. Walking to Hugh's Dale is easy, with boardwalks leading the way past giant robber crabs to a crystal-clear waterfall that tumbles down a hill.

A more extensive walk leads along the east coast to Dolly Beach. The reward here is an isolated beach covered with turtle tracks.

Birdwatching

Being the only outcrop of land in the middle of a vast ocean, Christmas Island is an important habitat for both endemic and migrant species.

Birdwatchers from around the world come to see the Golden Bosun, also known as the White-tailed Tropicbird.

Other indigenous species include the Christmas Island Frigatebird and the Christmas Island Goshawk.

Tripping over crabs

If Christmas Island is famous for just one thing it would have to be the annual red crab migration, which happens from the end of October to the beginning of December. Every year, the rainy season triggers their migration from the forest to the coast, to breed and release their eggs into the sea. This is quite a sight.


Crab paint the town red

'The roads, the forest floor, even people's homes turn a vibrant shade of red as the crabs are everywhere. And they have the right of way. This is a unique natural phenomenon and everything possible is done to preserve the crabs,' says Mrs Tierney.

Natural works of art

The greatest of all artists on this island is, of course, nature. The Tierneys recommend a visit to The Blow Holes on the island's south coast. Even from a distance you can hear the rushing, roaring water and admire the fissures and tunnels the pounding water has created on the shore over countless years.

Sunsets and simple pleasures

As the sun goes down over the Indian Ocean, most people, tourists and residents alike, chill out.

'You can relax with a drink at the Golden Bosun, facing the vast ocean and watch it turn to gold,' says Mr Tierney. Sunsets are definitely at the top of the evening entertainment list here as there are only a handful of restaurants.

The Golden Bosun and Rumah Tinggi serve modern Aussie-style dinners. The Tierneys recommend the fresh Australian fish served with salad.

For a touch of something more lively, head to Poon Saan, which is located on top of the hill, and indulge in some delicious Chinese food such as chilli chicken and Oriental vegetables best enjoyed with a beer.

deepikas@sph.com.sg

This article was first published in The Straits Times on August 19, 2008.

 

 
STORY INDEX
 
  Christmas corals
   
 
  Wake up to lake views
   
 
  Forest's new discovery of rare hornbill
   
 
  A Sunset to savour
   
 
  Chasing the sun at Dieng plateu
   
 
  Retreat to a farm in Kranji
   
 
  Walk on the wild side
   
 
  In Tiger's Nest
   
 
  Adventurous fun
   
 
  Alaskan Ice-Capade
   
We welcome contributions, comments and tips.
a1travel@sph.com.sg
   

Search: