BY: LYNN SEAH

XI HU or West Lake is actually a group of over 30 lakes in China, and the one that is celebrated in Chinese classical literature is in Hangzhou. But we do not know what West Lake really looked like when the poets from centuries ago extolled its beauty.

The lake today is unlikely to take your breath away, pretty though it is with its picture-postcard scenes of weeping willows gently brushing their leaves on the water. It is certainly less tranquil and romantic than in the ancient days, what with the lake sitting in the middle of a bustling metropolis with its designer boutiques and Starbucks cafe.

And it is difficult to be enchanted by the scenery when you are constantly accosted by touts offering tours and when your senses are assaulted by buggies blaring away the Butterfly Lovers' Concerto.

Hangzhou was the setting of the romance between Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai, the tragic pair in the well-known Chinese story. Still, it must be wonderful for the residents of Hangzhou to have this scenic spot so close by.

You can see how much the lake is part of their lives, from the old folk doing their exercises in the morning to the younger ones strolling, cycling, boating and enjoying tea by the lake.

Hangzhou residents exercising by West Lake.

There certainly is a lot to see and do around West Lake. The place has so many historical and literary associations.
You can visit the tomb of Yue Fei, the Song Dynasty patriot, or climb Leifeng Pagoda, which is where Madame White Snake was supposedly imprisoned in another classic romance linked to Hangzhou.

The pagoda is a modern structure complete with lifts and escalators. It was built above the ruins of the original, which had collapsed in 1924.

In the woods near the lake is Lingyin Temple, one of the largest temple complexes in China. On its grounds is the famous Feilai Feng (The Peak That Flew From Afar) - so named because it looked so different from its surroundings that a visiting monk inquired if it had flown in from elsewhere.

On the slopes of the limestone outcrop and within its caves are numerous carvings of Buddhist figures, some of them with parts shiny because countless people have rubbed them for good luck.

You can also take a cruise to one of the islands in the middle of the lake or cycle around it. Bicycle rental stands are located all around the lake.

Devotees at Lingyin Temple.

At night, catch Impression West Lake, a show created by renowned film director Zhang Yimou that features a cast of hundreds performing on the surface of the lake to music by Kitaro.

From the moment the lights came on - bathing the surrounding trees in an ethereal green glow that invited gasps from the audience - it was a visual spectacle of splashing water, flying lights and a story of star-crossed lovers who kept getting separated.

But they were reunited in the end, running across the lake into each other's arms.

This trip was sponsored by AirAsia.

This article was first published in The Straits Times on July 31, 2008.