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By Brenda Benedict
The southern German state of Bavaria has perhaps inadvertently produced some stereotypes of German culture. Our columnist discovers more than just beers and BMWs during a recent trip to the capital, Munich.
When I recently mentioned in passing my interest in purchasing a dirndl, my proudly Hessisch husband blanched.
After all, it is the traditional dress of women in Bavaria and not Hessen, his home state.
Yet outsiders can be forgiven for assuming that the outfit (consisting of a frilly bodice, blouse, full skirt and apron) is Germany's national costume. After all, women are often depicted wearing it at the other famous Bavarian event, the Oktoberfest.
However, I had a niggling doubt that he wasn't too keen on me owning an outfit from the "other side". Hessen"s state soccer team, Eintracht Frankfurt, had recently fared poorly against yet another acclaimed Bavarian export, FC Bayern Munich.

Picture of Munich City |
Nevertheless, a week ago we found ourselves cruising due south to the state that has also put the Bimmer and liquid bread (the BMW and beer) on the world map.
Our plan was to spend a long weekend taking in the sights of the state's capital, Munich. Or to use its German name: Muenchen (pron: Mewn-shien).
One of the first landmarks you'll spot when entering the city is the Alliance Arena - Munich's present "temple to football". This is where the two home teams, FC Bayern Munich and TSV 1860 Muenchen enthrall fans during footie season. Resembling what I can only describe as a car tyre, it is especially eye-catching at night as special lighting makes it glow a vivid red.
Another jaw dropper is the Mercedes-Benz Centre, constructed entirely of glass. Doubling as a showroom, with row upon row of cars gleaming invitingly under spotlights, it is bound to get Merc fans hyperventilating.
Perhaps these structures are a fitting introduction to a city that is not short of architectural wonders.
On top of our list was Munich's most recognisable structure, the onion-domed twin towers of the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). As Bavaria is devoutly Catholic, several churches dot the city's skyline. Yet nothing beats this Gothic cathedral whose towers can be seen from all directions. And thanks to a state provision prohibiting the building of any structure over 100m, the cathedral will also not be dwarfed by any skyscraper in future.
In a fit of adventure, we decided to ascend the cathedral's south tower which offers a panoramic view of the city and the neighbouring Alps. Our enthusiasm slowly waned as we realised that the climb up the winding staircase could actually take all day. Thankfully, after a couple of flights, there was a lift to take us to the top. The view did not disappoint. We could even see snow on the Alps' higher peaks.
After making our way down, we headed for the Marienplatz, the city's centre. The cobbled stone square was abuzz with tourists gazing upwards. This is not unusual as they were all waiting for a unique presentation on the balcony of the Rathaus, the 19th-century Gothic city hall.

Glockenspiel bell tower |
Here, at 11am and 5pm daily, people can watch the famous Glockenspiel. This is similar to the workings of a cuckoo clock with 43 bells and 32 life-size figures re-enacting two major events in Munich's history.
The first is the celebration of the marriage of Duke Wilhelm V, complete with jousting knights on horseback. Naturally the Bavarian knight wins every time! The second features a celebration of the end of the plague in the city. This 15-minute spectacle ends with a golden bird, perched at the top of the Glockenspiel, chirping three times.
You may also find yourself with a serious crick in the neck after this. However, it can be quickly forgotten by indulging in some of the city's culinary delights. And the best place to do this is at the Hofbraeuhaus am Platzl.
I was amused to be greeted at the door by an Asian waitress dressed in a " surprise, surprise " dirndl. As I gave my husband a "see-it's-not-that-bad" look, I couldn't help but marvel at the successful integration of the Auslaender (foreigner) within what could be described as a hallowed German tradition. Ironically also, it was here in 1920 that Adolph Hitler outlined the Nazi Party programme shortly after its formation.
We entered the brewery to the strains of the oompah oompah band playing famous Schlagers (folk songs) while waiters scuttled about to seat and serve locals and tourists alike.
After scanning the vast menu, I opted for the Bavarian Weisswurst (white veal sausage) which is boiled and eaten with sweet mustard and a freshly baked pretzel.
I was told that the traditional method of eating it is to snip open its ends and suck out the meat. Foreseeing an embarrassing "accident", I chose to use my utensils instead!
My husband meanwhile quenched his thirst with a Helles (pale lager) served in the traditional Mass (one litre glass beer mug). Seasoned guzzlers will recognise it as the one used in the Oktoberfest celebrations. Carrying a full mug can already form biceps. So imagine the strength of the Oktoberfest waitresses who can heave up to 12 at a time!
My personal highlight though was the Alte Pinakothek (Old Pinakothek). Strange name notwithstanding, it is one of the world's oldest galleries housing an extensive collection of artworks by European masters from the 14th to the 18th centuries.
Art's biggest names are here including Raphael, Rembrandt, Botticelli, Rubens, da Vinci and Titian. I admit to being unable to hold forth a highbrow discussion on the works themselves. I can only say that they were all breathtaking!

Marienplatz, 12th century city centre |
Art afficionados would need more than a day to go through the entire collection. And for 4.50 (RM20.40), which includes an audio guide, the entrance fee is certainly value for money.
And as a testament to how much Munich has to offer, I must admit that I (a self-declared shopaholic) did not shop at all. Our visit coincided with the Catholic holiday of All Saints, and as such, the shops were all closed. Nevertheless, there was enough to keep us blissfully occupied, besides having the opportunity to attend a traditional Latin Mass in the Frauenkirche.
As we drove past the Alliance Arena again on our journey home, my husband suggested coming again to watch a live soccer match there. I'm all for it.
But I guess we'll have to wait for a reversal of Eintracht Frankfurt's fortunes first.
| Brenda Benedict is a Malaysian living in Frankfurt. She enjoys people watching as it gives her fodder for this fortnightly column. She spotted a hot pink Dirndl in a shop window that she would have tried on . . . if the shop was open. |
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