Ubud is Bali's cultural village. It has an ever increasing number of quality restaurants to complement the lifestyle. Now it also has one with air-conditioning. Lamak has done it smart! There is pleasant outdoor dining, both down amongst the water fountains, and upstairs on the breezy balcony. But, at the rear of the balcony just beside the wine room, is an air-conditioned lounge, consisting of four large white leather banquettes and a scattering of smaller tables. A very stylish room, indeed.

Designed by famous landscape gardener Made Wijaya and managed by International chef Roland Lickert, Lamak was assured of success from the very beginning. The cuisine is Asian Fusion, and this one works!

The cocktail bar at Lamak is one of the most professional in Bali. Under cover but at the edge of the garden courtyard, a more perfect setting could not be imagined. Different hand-blown glasses are used for each cocktail. Try the Lamak Mango (juice from fresh mango flesh with cointreau and vodka) or the Van Gogh (a layered shot of blue curacao, grenadine and absinthe).

The dinner menu at Lamak is exotic, so much so that you will have much difficulty in selecting your order.

The Seared Scallops are tender, plump little mollusks that sit on a bed of green tea noodles, combined with a creamy version of an Indonesian sambal. Don't share this dish! Slices of Sweetbreads are served with crusted asparagus and a turmeric sauce, while Crab Meat is combined with young coconut, lime and fresh mint and presented between crisp won ton sheets.

For soup, the choice is small in number, but wide in variety. The Pumpkin Soup comes with feta cheese and pumpkin seeds, and the Duck Broth has been infused with smoked tea, with dumplings of Asian mushrooms floating on the top. There is real Fusion cuisine in the form of a Balinese Bouillabaisse - a variety of barbecued seafood in a broth that has star fruit, turmeric and lemon grass, served with a sambal mayo.

The main courses include many seafood options, but all tastes are catered for. Jumbo BBQ Prawns are brushed with a honey vinaigrette, the Dory Fillet is saffron marinated, and Sesame-crusted Scallops come with Kung Pao sauce (soy, star anise, coriander, ginger and lemongrass).

The Chicken Kiev (stuffed with garlic butter) has been rolled in wonton sheets before frying. Interesting, but it can be hard to beat the original version, though you get points for trying. The Pork Fillet is wrapped in pancetta and served on creamy polenta. A recent addition is the wonderful Sweetbread Ravioli in a ginger and lemongrass butter.

At Lamak, the Lamb Rack Cutlets (right) are sensational. Two thick lamb cutlets, juicy and not over-cooked, that have been coated with a tangy Hunan grill sauce, before cooking, then served with an apricot salsa. Definitely finger-licking good! A cilantro-encrusted Beef Fillet, on a bed of mushrooms and grilled bell peppers, is a perfect piece of meat, cooked just right.

The wine list at Lamak is one of the best balanced to be found in Bali.

A recent addition at Lamak is their Chef Tasting Menu for those who find selection too difficult from the Asia Fusion menu. At S$30++ for 5 courses, it gives you tremendous value-for-money! A sample of the ever-changing menu: Baked Snails (with Café de Paris butter) or a Cheviche of Opaka (marinated in coconut cream, lime juice, turmeric and capsicum), a Soup of Smoked Tea Infused Duck Broth (with dumplings of Asian mushrooms), main of Duck Breast (Magret), Lobster Lasagna (papaya cream and lemongrass), Lamb Rack Cutlet (brushed with Hunan sauce) or BBQ Prawns (honey vinaigrette and rice pancake) and finish with an Assorted Dessert Plate.

At the top of the dessert list are the most perfect Hot Souffles, in raspberry, blueberry, mango, chocolate or vanilla. Deep-fried Wonton Parcels are filled with a guava compote, and sit on a fruit relish. More traditional is an Orange and Ginger Brulée.

Lamak
Jln. Monkey Forest,
Ubud, Bali
Tel: (62-361) 974.668
Opening hours: Lunch 11.00 a.m. to 5.00 p.m. (condensed luncheon menu but dinner menu served on request), Dinner 5.00 - 11.00 p.m., daily.
Price: $80 for two [+ drinks]

This is an abridged version of the full review that appears on the BaliEats web site, Bali's comprehensive restaurant guide: www.balieats.com