Fish signifies fertility while its head signifies the aspiration to always be at the head. Traditionally, fish is cooked whole during this time of the year. I initially wanted to offer a whole bass baked in a casing of rock salt here, because white represents purity. But seeing as this white shell would only be shattered, tugged off and discarded, I changed my mind.

The style in which I cook this is suitably simple and very Italian, with the cleaned fish rubbed with salt and olive oil and stuffed with a bouquet of fragrant, clean herbs.

The fish is to be eaten smeared with a dulcet tomato jam, and so doesn't really require additional saucing. But should you desire a lacing liquor, tip the fish juices into a saucepan, add 125ml white wine and reduce.

Ingredients

• A 2.2 - 2.5 kg sea bass, scaled and gutted
• 2 rosemary sprigs
• 4 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon crushed fennel seeds
• Approximately 50ml olive oil
• Salt

Method

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees C.

Slash both sides of the bass at regular 2 inch intervals. Rub it all over with salt, emphatically so at the cuts and eviscerated underside into which you stow the rosemary, bay and fennel seeds afterwards. Rest on a solid baking tray. Anoint with olive oil and roast it for approximately 20-25 minutes. If you withdraw a small knife from the thickest portion of the fish and press it against your lower lip, it should feel warm. Expect a healthy tan.

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Whole roasted sea bass
Stories and photos copyright © Bryan Koh, unless otherwise stated. Not to be reproduced without permission from the author.

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