IN 1998, when Galvin Lim heard that the Les Amis restaurant group was recruiting the team for a new destination restaurant in the Botanic Gardens, he approached founding partner and executive chef Justin Quek, who offered him a position as resident chef there. Almost nine years later, Lim has become a permanent fixture at Au Jardin, still hands down the most uniquely beautiful fine-dining establishment in Singapore.
Lim is now the longest-serving chef in the group, and a big reason why Au Jardin, set in a restored colonial residence within the Botanics, is consistently rated one of the best dining experiences here, with an ever-growing legion of local and foreign fans. One meal there is all it takes to understand why it is also the best-performing member in the Les Amis Group.
Lim, 38, spent eight years at Latour, the former fine-dining restaurant in the Shangri-La Hotel, before moving to Au Jardin, so he believes in a long-term commitment to the job. He credits owner and group chairman Desmond Lim with providing the basis for the restaurant's strong performance and consistent quality. 'Not many bosses give us the leeway to look at any food products we want and source the best ingredients,' he says. 'That's what this organisation is all about.'
Not too many owners bring their staff on regular trips to some of the most famous restaurants in the world, but thanks to the chairman, Lim has had the opportunity to train with, or dine in some of the biggest names in the culinary world, including Le Gavroche in London and El Bulli in Spain.
With its Garden-of-Eden-like setting and the firm backing of management, Lim is able to create menus that do justice to his culinary abilities. 'Galvin is in his own domain over there,' says Quek. 'He's got a beautiful place and he does a great job with his classic, conservative cuisine.'
Lim credits his father, who worked as a chef at the Shangri-La, for motivating him and helping to give him a head start in his career. 'Basically, my cuisine has stayed classic French - with modern presentation - from day one,' he says. 'The origins and techniques are still French and the style has not evolved that much but the taste and presentation also remain consistent.' In other words, if it isn't broken, why fix it? It's a formula that has served Au Jardin extremely well over the past decade.
At a recent lunch tasting (available only on Fridays), Lim's impressive ability to combine the right ingredients, flavours and textures was fully evident. A tasty, if relatively tame starter of Spanish ham with a slice of toasted bread and chopped tomatoes paved the way for a beignet of pickled herring with a egg confit and avruga caviar - with the crunchy herring batter a very nice complement to the soft texture of the egg.
After an intermezzo of tomato consomme, two small main courses of lightly cooked salmon fillet and a tenderised veal strip were appropriately delicate while the dessert of Grand Marnier jelly with mint sorbet was a jolt to the palate, light and refreshing. A four-course lunch menu is priced at $55 while the more serious eight-course dinner degustation menu - featuring lobster, quail and wagyu beef - is available at $170.
With some restaurants it's all about the food while others rely on the atmosphere to carry the day. Au Jardin offers an impeccable combination of food and atmosphere to make a spectacular whole - among the multitude of restaurant options these days, it stands out as a true diner's delight.
Lim, 38, spent eight years at Latour, the former fine-dining restaurant in the Shangri-La Hotel, before moving to Au Jardin, so he believes in a long-term commitment to the job. He credits owner and group chairman Desmond Lim with providing the basis for the restaurant's strong performance and consistent quality. 'Not many bosses give us the leeway to look at any food products we want and source the best ingredients,' he says. 'That's what this organisation is all about.'
