KATONGITES have always been spoilt for choice when it comes to good makan.
Make any turn from the Joo Chiat/East Coast Road junction within a 1km radius, and it's likely to lead you to a Japanese yakitori, a chocolate cake boutique, a top-notch Peranakan restaurant, a queue for seats in a steakhouse, some no-frills authentic Vietnamese restaurant or fine Cantonese cuisine.
Many have been around for a while and have earned that rightful spot with the Katong tastebuds.
So I won't usually review an eatery in that area that has been around for less than a year.
Settling-in periods, the instability of traffic flow and fickle expectations can unsettle any new eatery.
If they are out of sync, they usually shut down within a year.
But when I zipped by the Yellow Light Thai Restaurant, I had to put my criteria on the back burner.
They began business in the East Coast area in earnest in early January.
But they have been at it technically since 1982 in Penang, the de-facto street food capital of Malaysia.
When I first ate at the original Yellow Light Penang Restaurant at Jalan Fettes up on a little hill five years ago, I was taken in by the atmosphere.
It was converted from an old house and had both enchantingly decorated indoors and balcony seating set in low and warm lighting.
It was regarded then as the most upmarket authentic Thai restaurant there. It is run by a Penang family with South Thailand heritage.
The founding matriarch, Madam Yoke Payong, started the restaurant by chance when a friend asked if she could provide a privateThai meal for a group.
With what she learnt from an aunt, who, they claim, had worked in the Royal Thai kitchens, she served the first of many delicate meals that came out of their humble home kitchen.When word of their reputation got out, there was no turning back. Their home soon became a popular albeit unlicensed restaurant. The food was well presented and had a hint of local flavour that came with an understanding of local palates.
Their stuffed chicken wings, for example, had a green curry flavoured centre, which reminded me of spicy chicken curry puff stuffing.
Their starter, Miang Khum salad had
nuts, fried coconut shavings, lime cubes, garlic, chilli and hae bi (dried shrimps), and came elegantly laid on banana leaves.
You wrap it in a leaf and dribble on to it a sauce made with gula melaka, lemon grass accents and hae bi.
It came as a surprise to me when I learnt they have since relocated to an unglamorous Georgetown location due to competition from the now prevalent collection of eateries manned by the Thai spouses of Penang folks.
It was even more of a jolt to know that their only family member left in the business now lives in Singapore.
"We have now left the operations in Penang to senior hired hands. Moving to Singapore to set up our eatery here was a wish I had been harbouring for a few years now," said Ms Loh Shih Erh, who had to help her mother cook since she was in her teens.
She chose the heart of the East Coast Road area as she "likes the atmosphere", but she also understands she is up against picky foodies.
When her ageing mother came visiting, the first thing she did was head straight into the new eatery to check the rempah, ignoring the cosy little set-up, commenting "this one can, this one cannot".
Their Khao Kluk Kapi - belachan fried rice with sweet meat, mango, eggs and dried shrimps - passed the test.
Their Poo Ja - stuffed crab meat and ground pork in crab shell - is also a "can", and has its texture broken with little bits of water chestnuts.
But what I had to stop longer for was the Khai Khen Sing Kherng - fried meat balls with salted egg yolk centres.
It came delicately and wonderfully wrapped in crisp fried noodle strips.
I am a fan of Yam Voon Sen, tangy and spicy glass noodle salad, but their version has a spice quotient a bit on the south side of spicy.
Shih Erh sounds like one who is determined to fit right into the Katong makan elites club and will pound her rempah way into your book of favourites.
YELLOW LIGHT THAI RESTAURANT 95 East Coast Road
Lunch and dinner daily, closed on Mondays
Tel: 6345 7324
