IN the part of town that's better known for its neon-lit bars and wedding gown shops, Duxton Hill has become a genteel haven for those looking for good food and a quiet place. A small cluster of restaurants would do it, and that was the intention of the folks behind The Universal and Uluru.

The idea is to see a handful of different food concepts along the cobbled-stoned stretch, says Rene Bennett, the general manager, so that the street takes on a seriously gourmet air.

Mr Bennett says that he started Uluru when he was thinking about what he missed from Australasian cuisine. Steakhouses here tended to be fairly formal in their delivery, but his own memories were of really relaxed places. And then because he used to catch fresh trout with his father and smoke them, he's built a smoke house for smoking salmon and duck at the restaurant premises.

One might think it's the howl of a dingo at first, given the restaurant's logo, but Uluru is the aboriginal name for Ayer's Rock in Australia, which pretty much gives you an idea of the slant that the restaurant concept has taken. But then, Uluru is less rugged than it sounds. In fact, the decor and presentation of food are more 'smart casual' than 'rustic steakhouse', relaxed though it might be. The only concession to the outback seems to be the corrugated metal sheets used for the ceiling, as the restaurant's decor is otherwise woody chic.

Being situated at a corner shoplot, the dining room opens out to the alfresco area, where you can admire the tree-lined patio especially when dining at night.

As far as first impressions of the cuisine goes, my dining companions and I were pretty pleased with our starters, with something as basic as the Caesar salad ($18) spiked with extra ingredients like tangy sundried tomatoes, serrano ham and a poached egg on the side. The smoked Margret duck salad ($18) was also excellent, with paper-thin slices of smoked duck curling around the mesclun leaves, and caramelised grapes providing bursts of sweet juice in the mouth.

Smoking the tomatoes before they're blended into soup also deepened its flavour, for a delicious cream of tomato enhanced with a bit of pesto and a frothy dash of cream.

We tried the steak of course, which saw angus sirloin offered as part of the four-course dinner set ($65++). The thick cut of steak (which would otherwise be priced at $42 for 200gms) was very good, with the meat full of its natural juices and with a cushiony texture that's done to the correct medium-rareness. This was nicely paired with an artful smear of pumpkin puree on the side.

Less impressive was the Kurobuta pork rack ($32) however, smothered with a chilli mixed with BBQ sauce-like gravy that was too sharp and sweet. The pork was also like a block of white meat, boiled just before gravy was scooped over it. Quite a pity, as we were looking forward to a nicely marbled pork that's marinated ever so expertly so that its sweetness can come forth.

The set dinner ended with a trio chocolate cake (priced $16 a la carte) which looked like a slab of ice cream - a chocolate neopolitan, said my dining companion. The top layer of white cream gradated to a milk chocolate middle and then a base of dark truffle-textured chocolate. The blackcurrant almond tart ($14) was also a surprise, looking like a chicken pie, but when halved, had a not-too-sweet almond paste filling with just a hint of blackcurrant. It went well with the rich vanilla ice-cream.

Duxton Hill is charming at night, which Uluru has taken advantage of by making the restaurant an open concept. Though some might find the fare a nudge better next door, at The Universal, the trade-off is the ambience.

Uluru
40 Duxton Hill,
(S) 089618
Tel: 6223-3654

Rating: 6.5/10

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