AT ANY Italian restaurant I visit for the first time, I target the spaghetti vongole (pasta with clams cooked in light white wine sauce).

This gives my tastebuds a consistent base for comparison. My maiden visit to Zambuca is no different. Despite executive chef Dennis' recommendation to try the Herb Crusted & Oven Baked Lamb Rack ($44), I call for the spaghetti vongole ($26).

As I take my first bite, I'm delighted to find it cooked in a light and tasty sauce that's wet enough so that I can actually taste the white clams.

Yummy. What's outstanding about this dish is that the clams are not overcooked - a common shortcoming found at even the best Italian restaurants.

Adding a twist to this Italian staple, the chef chooses to use scallions instead of parlsey.

The dish is lovely, no doubt, but I do prefer having parsley in it because it's just as fragrant without being overpowering.

Across the table, the recommended lamb rack that my lunch partner ordered is somewhat distracting. The overall presentation is picture-perfect. The baby lamb rack sits prettily on a bed of brown sauce with pearl potatoes and sweet peas. I couldn't help but steal a bite. It's excellent - juicy and tender, blending well with the red ragout.

Thankfully, I don't miss out on this completely.

Another must try? The sauteed Japanese scallops "smothered" with orange hollandaise ($26).

Verdict: Posh Italian fare in a New York loft-like setting that's just as rich and tasteful.

DBS American Express cardmembers only: One-for-one set lunch (weekdays).

Zambuca Italian Restaurant & Bar
3/F Pan Pacific Hotel
(tel: 6337 8086).

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