No wine on the planet so excites wine lovers as pinot noir. For years, Burgundy ruled. The New World offered creditable sparkling wines, cabernets, chardonnays, and almost every other wine style, but attempts to replicate Burgundy were dismissed with disdain. Try as they might, it seemed that nowhere else would ever approach what Burgundy could offer. The only other variety that could make a similar claim was Piedmont's nebbiolo and the great Barolos it makes.

When the New World finally realized that it could make great pinot noir, very different from great Burgundy, the contenders lined up. Oregon and parts of California, such as Russian River, were considered "most likely to emulate". Australia took its time, and has some serious wines that surprise, though Australian pinot is often under-appreciated, the focus being so much on its unique shiraz.

Then New Zealand entered the fray. Once a vinous giggle, New Zealand stunned many with its extraordinarily pungent sauvignon blanc. Pinot noir, though, was playing in the big leagues. Most were more than skeptical. Today, New Zealand pinot noir is considered by many as second only to the great wines of Burgundy.

New Zealand's regional differences were as significant as those found throughout the Côte d'Or. Marlborough offered delicious, pretty wines while Martinborough led the way with wonderfully concentrated and complex pinots. Then a few years ago, stories of some special wines from the south began to emerge. Pinot lovers are always keen to try the next new thing, and equally quick to dismiss it. This time, they took notice. Central Otago took its first tentative steps on the world stage and has never left.

A few wineries made tiny quantities during the 1970s and 1980s, but it wasn't until the 1990s that the trickle turned into a flow. From eleven wineries in 1996, there are now over 80 (with 50 grape growers), making some of the world's most sought after wines. In 1998, it was New Zealand's eighth largest region. Now, it is fourth with a bullet, though the massive plantings of sauvignon blanc in Marlborough leave everything else in their wake.

Superb climes

Central Otago is one of the most stunningly beautiful wine regions imaginable. On the viticultural cusp as the world's most southerly winemaking region, it enjoys a Continental climate, the only place in New Zealand to do so. Vineyards range from 200 to 450 meters above sea level.

Surprisingly warm in summer, it can be very cool throughout the rest of the year. Growers live in constant fear of frosts. There is considerable diurnal temperature variation (the difference between day and night). Locals believe this contributes to the amazing flavour and intensity the grapes achieve.

The annual rainfall is extremely low, around 300mm annually, a level more often associated with the world's deserts - especially amazing when one considers that only a few hours drive away is Milford Sound, the second wettest place on earth. Low humidity assists in the prevention of disease and is presumably part of the reason why several wineries have taken the biodynamic path. Site selection is key.