The Mt Difficulty winery.

Pinot noir is undoubtedly the star performer, drawing international acclaim. It dominates over almost 80 percent of the region. Pinot from Central Otago is alluringly pure with glorious, bold fruit flavors. Rich and dense with obvious varietal characters, aromatic and intense, these wines make a statement.

There are some impressive chardonnays as well, though a few years ago, pinot gris seemed likely to excel. The market's uncritical acceptance of this variety ensures its success, though some excellent ones are being made. Then, riesling was little more than a curiosity. Now, riesling is on the rise. The teeth-rattling acidity the region provides means that most need to be balanced with a degree of sweetness but, assuming one has no philosophical antipathy to this (think German as opposed to Australian styles), there are some exceptional wines on offer. For riesling, seek out Carrick, Mt Difficulty, Felton Road, Olssens, Mount Edward, and Amisfield. Low humidity makes botrytis-affected wines almost impossible.

The vintage that sent the region's pinot stocks soaring was 2002. Many said it would never be bettered, a vintage that allowed all of the bold expression that the region could muster to shine. I remain convinced 2003 was superior. The year 2002 was everything claimed, but these were pinots for shiraz lovers - big wines and ideal for those looking to branch into pinot. Wines from 2003 were sensual, full of finesse and delicacy, offering subtle aromas, grace, elegance, and length of flavor on the palate: pinots for true believers.

It was difficult in 2004, while 2005 looks to have made some excellent wines, between 2002 and 2003 in style. It is too early for a definitive view on 2006 but it looks promising.

The region's best

Felton Road is perhaps the name most associated with the region. They leave no stone unturned in their efforts to make the best possible wine, believing in biodynamics in the vineyard. Their Block 3 and Block 5 Pinots are cult wines.

All of the wineries mentioned above for riesling are also making exceptional pinot. Others definitely worth chasing include Quartz Reef, Akarua, Chard Farm, Peregrine, Valli, Rippon, and Gibbston Valley, though this list is far from complete.

Pinot noir from Central Otago is now firmly established as one of the world's great wine styles. The wines are not cheap, nor are they made in large quantities, but what world-class wines are? They deserve a place in the cellar of every serious wine lover.

Recommended wineries:

Felton Road: www.feltonroad.com
Mt Difficulty: www.mtdifficulty.co.nz
Quartz Reef: www.quartzreef.co.nz
Rippon: www.rippon.co.nz/index.cfm/home
Carrick: www.carrick.co.nz

This article was first published in Goldarths Review