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Geoffrey Eu
Sat, Dec 01, 2007
The Business Times
La Noce

SALVATORE Catalano hails from Palermo in Sicily, a part of Italy where food, family and friendship seem to matter more than almost anywhere else. It's the type of sentiment that readily pervades family-style Italian restaurants all over the world, and Catalano has recreated a similar atmosphere at his homey two-month-old restaurant La Noce, located deep in the heart of Hillview Avenue.

Catalano, who has worked as a chef in Singapore for the past three years, is obviously fond of neighbourhood joints. He started at L'Antipasto in Namly Place and then moved to Papi on Mohamed Sultan Road before starting his own business as a personal chef about a year ago. He still performs in the kitchen for clients but he is the sole owner of La Noce, and he has also recruited another chef from Italy to help in the business.

'I like residential areas because I get a good feeling from being there,' says Catalano, who has five sisters and three brothers and is notably passionate about Sicilian food and culture. 'It's like a small village here and people are very friendly. Many of my customers leave it to me to cook and don't even look at the menu. It's a more personal approach and that's how I like it.'

La Noce, which means walnut, is named for a restaurant he worked in 15 years ago in Dusseldorf. 'It was very successful, so I chose the same name,' he says.

La Noce offers pretty straightforward fare, the sort of comfort food you'd expect to find in small Italian towns and close-knit neighbourhoods. Catalano is perfectly capable of whipping up something more sophisticated as well - it all depends on the availability of ingredients and what diners feel like eating on any given day. If you don't fancy ordering off the menu, he can arrange for a four-course tasting menu ($58 and up).

In terms of menu items, the usual suspects are all there - a variety of pizzas ($18), pastas ($18 to $26) and popular mains such as osso buco ($34) and lamb rack ($32) - at decent prices. During a recent visit, we sampled the vitello tonnato ($18), caprese salad ($16), and off-menu items like fettucine with rabbit ragout ($26) and homemade ravioli stuffed with tallegio cheese, mushroom and truffle. Desserts ($12) include a delicious panna cotta topped with cannoli and caramelized orange peel.

At La Noce, the menu is short, the food is fresh and the set-up is simple - sometimes, that's all you really need on a night out with friends and family.

La Noce
3 Chu Lin Road
(S) 669890
Tel: 6877-1986

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