Continental tilt

Singapore - They may lack the flash, sex appeal and superstar names synonymous with luxury marques such as Gucci, Vuitton and Prada, but the latest continental labels to land in our malls make up for it in their stealth wealth cachet.

Brioni, an Italian fashion house specialising in made-to-order men's suits and luxurious tailoring, recently unveiled its first standalone boutique at Marina Bay Sands. The company, which has created suits worn by Pierce Brosnan in all his appearances as James Bond, and Daniel Craig in Casino Royale, has long appealed to the more discerning male customer. As Francesco Pesci, chief executive officer of Brioni, explains, the true pedigree of a Brioni suit is determined by how it feels when worn, and not just by its appearance.

"The Brioni suit is hand-tailored and crafted using traditional Italian tailoring techniques," says Mr Pesci, who was in town for the opening of the 1,720 sq ft store in September. "And just like how there may be many beautiful cars on the street and the difference between a luxury car and a regular one lies in its engine, the way a suit is crafted on the inside changes its performance. The comfort of a Brioni suit is second to none."

In an era when brandishing brand logos or even an "It" bag borders on sartorial vulgarity, understated luxury is the ultimate status symbol. And lesser-known European houses are more than happy to satiate the savvy shopper's thirst for low-key style.

"Like a private members' club, we are recognised by those in the know," says Marco Franchini, chief executive officer of Italian leather goods label Valextra. "We believe that true luxury lies in absolute discretion and exclusivity as symbolised by our signatures such as our Costa black ink (used to hand-lacquer the edges of bags) and the discreet V-cut detail. It takes a knowledgeable eye to identify our products and only a true connoisseur of style would truly appreciate and value our rich heritage, craftsmanship, innovation and uniqueness."

The 75-year-old house has just opened its 800 sq ft boutique in Paragon, which embodies minimalist chic, from its slate-thin shelves to logo-free products. And the brand's focus on understated classics have found a following among very well-known fans, including Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Aniston, David Beckham and Michelle Obama. And while the Singapore outpost for Brioni is the first in the world to feature the brand's new store concept, it is more about sleek architecture than the ostentatious glamour associated with Italian fashion.

Understated elegance

This recently launched blueprint melds the masculine aesthetics of an old-world gentleman's club with the elegance of a private dressing room. Indeed, one almost expects a coat-tail-wearing valet to stride across the boutique's Navona travertine floors and help a client into a jacket.

"We don't want to do things that have been done by other brands," says Mr Pesci. "We want to convey luxury in a discreet way and to stand out through the use of details and raw materials. It's tough work trying to communicate elegance without showing off."

And rather than set up a branch here right away, David Mason, creative director of Savile Row tailoring house Anthony Sinclair, has gone even more insider - flying over to discuss the creation of a bespoke fragrance with a niche perfume house, and offering private fittings to clients upon request.

However, the demand for bespoke tailoring in Asia has prompted Mr Mason to view potential sites for a permanent retail outlet while he was in town. "Asia has suddenly become our fastest-growing market," says Mr Mason. "Consumers here are style-savvy and sophisticated, and Singaporean men are no exception. They want the best products available, and when it comes to tailoring, they know that Britain's history and reputation is unrivalled."

Famed for being the tailor to Sean Connery in the James Bond movies directed by Terence Young, Anthony Sinclair certainly boasts the superstar connection required of any luxury label of repute. But he's best known for an understatedly flattering cut: The Conduit, which creates a subtle hour-glass silhouette with a firm shoulder, slightly flared skirt and suppressed waist.

A bespoke, hand-tailored suit takes 50 hours of hand-tailoring over the course of several weeks, and involves a series of fittings, "each taking the garment through successive stages of production, allowing the client to witness the true bespoke experience of having his clothes built around him," adds Mr Mason.

Bespoke tailoring also lies at the heart of Brioni, which has been owned by French luxury apparel holding company Kering since 2011. "Brioni was established as a tailoring shop and the made-to-measure business is in our DNA," says Mr Pesci. "We're the first to introduce a silk lining, the first to introduce colour into formal menswear, the first to hold a men's fashion show in 1952, when it was almost sacrilegious for men to be seen on the catwalk."

The go-to atelier for the likes of Donald Trump and Nelson Mandela employs over 1,000 staff in its Italian manufacturing facility, and it takes from 18 to as many as 48 hours to complete a suit. A rigorous apprenticeship programme helps safeguard the craftsmanship so integral to the brand's ethos.

"A tailor doesn't just excel in the technicalities of crafting a suit, he should be able to look at a customer and, apart from providing the perfect fit, analyse the way he walks, his posture and the colour of his hair and eyes, to ensure a suit that is flattering in every respect," adds Mr Pesci.

Strategic alliances

Likewise, the clean lines of each Valextra creation bears delicate details produced in Italy by a team of 60 craftsmen, who create quiet embellishments like the special hand-lacquered piping, soft, light-coloured leather lining and hardware accents used for its accessories.

And our small but discerning shopper demographic offers plenty of potential for brands that eschew showy luxury. The family-owned company has its eye on going public in the long term, and will be opening five freestanding shops in the world's fashion capitals in the next two years, following its partnership with home-grown retail group FJ Benjamin on its boutique here. In fact, Mr Franchini states that Singapore represents "almost half of the whole South-east Asian market, which grew by a remarkable 24 per cent last year."

Johnny Manglani, the president of the Uomo Group, who has been selling Brioni products in his multi-label store and partnered with Brioni to open its monobrand boutique here, has also noticed a rise in demand for accoutrements appreciated by those in the know. While Brioni has been traditionally favoured by greying business honchos and heads of state, Mr Manglani has encountered fans of the brand in their 20s.

The purveyor of upscale menswear labels here and in Russia adds: "There are so many young millionaires in Asia and Brioni appeals to a certain discerning type of person who could discover the brand in his 20s, and wear it until he retires."

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