TOKYO - Packed to the rafters with Japanese fans of the brand, Italian luxury brand Missoni - best-known for its signature zig-zag coloured knits - showed nary a zig nor zag in its Spring Summer 2014 collections for men and women.
Adding many more textures to the derigeur wool knit, think leather, silk and fringe, the collections - particularly the womenswear - was light as air, seemingly inspired by Japanese kimonos and a refreshing look for the brand.
Opening with the menswear collection - the guys walked the runway and then actually sat down in the front row to watch the girls - and featuring the hottest Japanese male model Soche from top agency Bark In Style (he recently walked of Dries Van Noten, among others, in the Europe shows); Missoni menswear played to a classic Italian heritage of style.
It was with the womenswear that the brand truly took off; gone were the endless repetitions of zig-zag knits in body-con shapes. Instead the pieces had a new sense of fluidity; the references to Japanese kimonos opening up the shapes to more fabric, less skin, and a clever use of colour - something Missoni has always been good at.
The reinterpretation of the traditional look, however, was cleverly worked into some pieces where the zig-zag was blown-up to make a single or double stripe statement - one that worked particularly well on a black and white number.
Missoni's great use of colour was seen in the juxtaposition of bight leathers with softer prints and in dégradé fringing that was draped around the body over silk tunics; you could just about see the old zig-zag.
Overall Missoni Spring Summer 2014 is a great new take on the brand's heritage and signature look; the addition of blocks of colour and new materials brings it into the 21st century and the presentation in Tokyo was greatly appreciated.
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