PARIS - French designer Hedi Slimane had the fashion world on the edge of its seat for his latest Saint Laurent show, hard on the heels of recent collections considered a touch too grungy by some.
Slimane's spring/summer 2014 collection had a 1980s rock vibe to it with trouser suits teamed with narrow ties, sheer blouses and dinner jackets.
"Everything he does enchants me... I have a passion for Hedi. I only wear Hedi," said former Chanel model and Yves Saint Laurent muse Betty Catroux as she left wearing a jacket from Slimane's last collection.
Although the jury is still out on the designer's third ready-to-wear collection for the illustrious French fashion house, the skinny tailoring that made him a fashion super-star was in clear evidence.
Skirts too were tight, extremely short and mostly leather.
First reaction came from industry journal Women's Wear Daily which noted that Slimane had continued with his "celebration of the rich rock chick", and asked "is it fashion?".
"Can something be considered real fashion if its sole purpose is to entice with the familiar rather than to challenge, at least a little? Is a designer doing his or her job to the fullest when creativity ends rather than begins with appropriation?
"Even if the answer to those questions is yes, is that the kind of fashion we want from a) the high-end designer runway in general, and b) one of the most revered names in the fashion directory? The discussion is open," it said.
The show - along with New York fashion star Alexander Wang's second collection for Balenciaga - was among the most anticipated of the season.