City of heroes

When an Indonesian friend invited me to visit him in Surabaya, I hesitated because I didn't know much about this hot, polluted third-world city. Since accommodation would be taken care of, I decided to ditch my prejudices and take up his offer to be my personal tour guide.

My first impression was that Indonesia's second biggest city - with a metropolitan population of nearly six million - is congested, confusing and noisy, much like its capital Jakarta.

"Yes, but there is one big difference - Surabaya is very clean," said my friend Kelvin. And indeed it is. Its convoluted streets were neat and free from rubbish.

Based on local folklore, Surabaya derived its name from the Javanese words suro (shark) and boyo (crocodile), an attribution to it being a city of power. It is the capital of rugged East Java - a province blessed with the archipelago's most arresting natural landscapes, including a dramatic mountain range that's home to the fabled and constantly fuming Mount Bromo.

Symbol of Surabaya

But Kelvin explained that the energetic port city, the birthplace of the country's beloved first president Sukarno, is close to Indonesians' hearts for a more significant reason.

It was here that thousands of local heroes died during the savage Battle of Surabaya on Nov 10, 1945, which paved the way for Indonesia's independence from the British following World War II. For this, Surabaya wears a badge of honour as Indonesia's City of Heroes, and the day is celebrated annually as Heroes' Day.

As I negotiated Surabaya's labyrinth of roads choked with traffic, Indonesia's gratitude to Surabaya for its birth became apparent.

Amidst the old buildings with semblances of Dutch architecture, statues of heroes and monuments commemorating the country's independence are scattered throughout the sprawling city.

One of the most important of these is Tugu Pahlawan or Heroes Monument. Rising like a rocket in the city centre, it is the symbol of Surabaya. In an open space slightly smaller than our Padang, a 41m structure juts into the sky, a constant reminder to citizens of the sacrifices made and blood spilled for their land. Around the grounds of the monument are statues of various heroes. There's also a heroes' grave and a simple museum under the monument detailing the Battle of Surabaya.

Walking down Jalan Pahlawan, you reach Jembatan Merah or Red Bridge, the exact location where the bloody battle was fought. Today, sleepy becak (trishaw) drivers rest on the sides of this simple bridge, waking from their slumber once in a while to call out to potential passengers.

The bridge, which links the Old City across the Kalimas river to Kya Kya or Chinatown, is also a popular rendezvous point for locals.

Tobacco and cloves

The House of Sampoerna, located just north of the Red Bridge is a must-go. Essentially, this museum and factory pays homage to Indonesia's famous kretek (tobacco and cloves) brand of cigarettes and its founder Liem Seeng Tee. From the second-floor of this 19th century Dutch-inspired building that was a former orphanage and theatre, you can peer into the factory section below to see hundreds of women roll and pack these potent cigarettes with clockwork precision.

Kelvin insisted that I visit the Monumen Kapal Selam or Submarine Monument (above), located in the city centre, next to Surabaya Plaza. A massive decommissioned submarine called Pasopati - now a museum - sits in the middle of the park as a proud tribute to Surabaya's strong maritime heritage, being home to one of Indonesia's naval fleets. The complex also has a children's recreational area, a small swimming pool, cafes and a multimedia room.

It was a fitting finale stop to my Surabaya experience as I strolled along the landscaped gardens of this waterside real-estate park sipping a cup of coffee, quietly recollecting the sights, scents and history of this proud city.

Guidelines

Garuda Indonesia flies direct to Surabaya four times a week.

Part of the experience of Surabaya (and Indonesia, for that matter) is outdoor, road-side dining.

Apart from Chinatown, there are other areas like more upmarket Kedungdoro Street in central Surabaya where you can savour authentic local food.

Wear long pants and clothes covering shoulders if you intend to visit and enter mosques.

If you have time, visit Surabaya's zoo - one of South-east Asia's oldest.

Its wide and interesting collection of Indonesian fauna includes the intimidating Komodo dragons. At its entrance is an iconic statue dedicated to the city of Surabaya - a white shark and crocodile engaged in battle stance.

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