London to Edinburgh: Off the beaten track

London to Edinburgh: Off the beaten track

Our rental car purred softly as it moved steadily on the motorway from London to Edinburgh. It's a pretty straight road with gradual bends at some stretches.

After leaving Manchester and driving for nearly three hours, we needed a toilet break. But we were in the middle of nowhere near the Scottish borders with only trees, wild shrubs and bushes flanking the motorway. It was then that I came to really appreciate the Plus R&R areas back home. You could still "hold it" knowing full well that there's an R&R or a small town up ahead.

With our bladder bursting, we thought we'd just have to do our business in the bushes.

But we needed to find the "right" bushes that'd shield us from the road and away from prying eyes, especially the highway patrol police.

We might just risk getting fined though it might not be necessarily so. So my hubby played it safe and drove a little further with the hope of coming across an R&R up ahead. And to our relief, there stood a signboard with the toilet and F&B symbols. God must have sympathised with our "urges".

The signboard points to a small road that veers off the motorway.

The R&R area shouldn't be far... so we thought.

But after a few minutes, what unfolded before us was a wide expanse of farm land with rows of tall electric windmills. The dual track road also traverses gently undulating land mostly covered with a natural carpet of green shrubs. Bursts of wild flowers here and there - from white to yellow to pink and purple - brightened the already beautiful Scottish countryside that summer. We forgot momentarily the reason for turning off the main road in the first place.

After driving some 2km, we still couldn't see the R&R area.

Neither was there a signboard to follow. Instead of turning back, we went ahead. I guess the explorer Bugis-Minangkabau blood in us just sizzled with excitement at the prospect of finding out what lay ahead.

Soon we were driving through some narrow streets flanked by old buildings with rugged stone walls. It's the small town of Coldingham with small hotels, B&Bs, fish and chip shops, ice cream shops and traditional-looking Scottish cafes.

Just outside the cramped town is a sprawling caravan park where we stopped at the common bath and toilet facilities. It's a lovely, clean caravan park with rows of caravan-like homes for rental and ample parking for caravans.

Leaving the park, we saw a signboard pointing the direction toward Edinburgh.

Oh, we haven't lost our way after all.

The best was yet to come.

The rustic town and farmlands soon gave way to a truly stunning coastline with steep cliffs overlooking a deep blue sea. A quick check on Google on our smart phone revealed that we were travelling along the Berwickshire coastline overlooking the North Sea. Running some 45km, the rocky coastline is the scenic gateway to Scotland with its high cliffs, deep blue water, secluded coves and picturesque fishing villages.

To the north are the harbours of Burnmouth, Eyemouth and St. Abbs where fishermen haul fresh catches of fish, lobsters and crabs.

Beach activities are popular at Coldingham Bay with its award-winning "Blue Flag" beach - Coldingham Sands, which is safe for swimming and surfing. Nearby St. Abbs Head with its iconic lighthouse is a major attraction in the area. The views are incredible. Its steep volcanic cliffs are as high as a four-storey building.

The cliffs were formed millions of years ago by active volcanoes. Declared a National Trust for Scotland, St. Abbs Head is the best known landmark along the magnificent Berwickshire coast.

Indeed, it's one of the most scenic coastal drives I've ever experienced. Its dramatic clifftop scenery is complete with natural arches and stacks that rise majestically from the sea. Wild, colourful flowers dot the rocky grassland at the cliff top while seabirds soar high above.

As our car cruised up and down the hilly coastal road, we realised that we were about to leave a fantastic destination that would be worthwhile for a return visit.

There are so many attractions near the coast - from lovely beaches, historic villages and picturesque rural setting to nature centres, parks and quaint towns. Had we not got off the motorway, we would not have come across the area.

This proved to me time and again that there's nothing to fear about going off the main tracks. Many times, such experiences have turned out to be the most memorable moments of my journeys.

This website is best viewed using the latest versions of web browsers.