Top of the world

Top of the world

Urban warriors like my best friend Laura and I love self-driving vacations.

We call the shots on where and when to go - that's our idea of a perfect holiday.

We touched down in Darwin, the capital of Australia's Northern Territory, and were on the road immediately - in a silver Ford Falcon, no less.

We were women on a mission, carefully studying the route (slightly over 1,000km) that would take us through attractions such as Kakadu National Park, Katherine, and Litchfield National Park, and then back to Darwin. Laura took the wheel and I was the navigator.

"Keep your eyes on both the map and the road signs," she said, before the car engine roared to life. And we were off!

Oh my Croc!

About an hour and half's drive from Darwin is the Adelaide River. As we neared the end of Fogg Dam Road along the river, I felt my heart race a little. Yes, we had arrived at the Jumping Crocodile Cruise! Adelaide River is where wildlife lovers and adrenaline junkies congregate for sightings of the Australian saltwater crocodile.

The waterways of northern Australia are teeming with over 80,000 of these magnificent creatures. But as they often bury themselves beneath muddy layers and hide under gigantic growths, unsuspecting passers-by are oblivious to their presence.

As the party of 30 sailed off, our guide Harry entertained us with snippets of Australia's natural heritage, pointing out kites and sea eagles along the way. The star of the day was none other than Brutus, the 5.5m long crocodile that we had come to see. As screams of delight (or terror) mingled with the whirr of the boat's engine into a deafening cacophony, the reptile leapt up and chomped on the chunk of buffalo meat that Harry dangled just outside the boat.

This manifestation of sheer power truly gave those glimpses of golden-hued slitty eyes, gleaming hide and slithery movements a sense of menace and brutality.

Whether it was due to this awareness or simply because of the sweltering heat, beads of perspiration had formed on my forehead. If adrenaline triggers flight or fight, I'd have little trouble choosing.

And how did Harry know that this was indeed Brutus? Well, it is short of a front leg on the right after a shark attack.

Nature's paradise

Flourishing with sumptuous bush land, Litchfield National Park offers awe-inspiring waterfalls and sparkling plunge pools. We passed the twin torrents of Florence Fall before venturing further to stop at Buley Rockhole, where we were greeted by a refreshing panorama of natural spas and whirlpools.

Although we were tempted to tarry so often - Tolmer Falls wowed with its rust-hued surrounds while Tjaebata Falls was a sacred aboriginal site - our sights were fixed on our final destination at Wangi Falls. Indeed, standing at the viewing platform at the base of Litchfield's largest waterfall, we couldn't help but marvel at the stunning scenery before us.

Those looking for a respite can continue to Walker Creek, a popular site for campers. We decided to skip the dip and instead rolled out the groundsheet for a picnic.

The national park doesn't just appeal to nature lovers. It is also a must-go for architecture addicts. Occasionally, we stumbled upon colonies of giant termite mounds.

Enchanting yet eerie, these cleverly designed structures were equipped with arches and tunnels, and many towered at 2m.

Next, we headed south-east towards Katherine Gorge. Sited within the 292,800ha Nitmiluk National Park, it can be explored by boat, canoe and helicopter, or on foot.

And since the Northern Territory is home to Kakadu National Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site, we made it a must-stop for this trip. Over 50,000 years of indigenous history and culture are showcased here via a plethora of aboriginal rock art sites that chronicle the society and way of life of the populations.

From the lookout point of a rocky plateau ("Do not touch any of the rock art!" bellowed the aboriginal guide), I was transfixed by the sweeping Arnhem Land. I wondered how the ancient people cherished and relished this rustic terrain over the seasons, as well as the eclectic assortment of flora and fauna.

Beach party

Returning to Darwin from Kakadu National Park took three hours. Since it was a Sunday, we visited the Mindil Beach Sunset Market. Open from 5pm to 10pm, from May to October, this bustling carnival was packed with stalls peddling everything from art and crafts to tours and health products.

As the captivating cloak of twilight gradually gave way to the dazzling starry night sky, Laura and I, both famished from the day's walking and wondering, chowed down on a scrumptious spread of pizza, paella, BBQ kangaroo and fruit smoothies.

And being in the Australian Outback didn't necessarily mean Darwin lacked the buzz of nightlife. At the outdoor Deckchair Cinema at Jervois Road, we bought tickets to animation feature The Wind Also Rises by Japanese director Hayao Miyazaki.

This tale of friendship and adventure was a fitting finale to our road trip.


This article was first published on June 8, 2014.
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