New eats hit town

New eats hit town

Smarter than a bistro but less stuffy than a restaurant, BT Weekend looks at six new dining destinations that occupy that sweet spot between casual and fine-dining.

Pluck
90 Club Street
6225 8286
www.ohpluck.com
Hours: 9am-midnight (Mon-Thu), 10am-1am (Fri), 5pm-1am (Sat)

Who doesn't love food and travel? Definitely not F&B entrepreneur Ken Tan.

Always brimming with ideas for new restaurants on his return from overseas travels, the 33-year-old recently decided to meld them all into one destination: Pluck.

Opened yesterday, the 25-seat eatery is a collage of design and branding inspirations from around the world: its shiny tiled walls are reminiscent of the New York subway, while the steelworks that run throughout the space are inspired by the old train stations in Germany.

Its menu, too, reads like a travel scrapbook of head chef Brandon Teo's extensive food-centric roam through New York, San Francisco and London late last year. A dish of pork neck ($22) brined overnight and braised for 18 hours takes a leaf out of nose-to-tail London restaurant St John's book, for example; while another dish of caraway-roasted beetroot and coffee-roasted carrots ($18) bear imprints of San Francisco's farm-to-table, ingredient-driven cooking ethos.

Sounds like a misfit on $5-happy-hour Club Street? That's the whole point. "Club Street either has serious 'sit down and eat' places or 'sit down and drink' destinations - there isn't a place for both," explains Mr Tan, who is also behind Gem, Manor and Zui Hong Lou bars a few units away. He decided to close Shots, the cafe that previously occupied the premises, two months ago due to waning demand for coffee on the street, but hopes to eventually revive the brand as a takeaway coffee franchise elsewhere. Pluck, meanwhile, is designed as a casual bar-restaurant. A very on-trend open kitchen counter runs the length of shophouse unit with stools for 16. When Club Street is closed to traffic on weekend nights, roadside tables can hold up to 20 more diners.

"We want to be a laid back, unpretentious place that doesn't take itself too seriously," says Mr Tan. Fittingly, Pluck takes its name from the irreverent combination of the words "plate" and a certain expletive, he adds, "because when you combine good food and good times with good friends, it can be as enjoyable as the act of having sex."

Accordingly, dishes on the menu are hived into three categories designed for communal feeds: Small, for starters good for one to two; Medium, for larger groups of three to four; and Sharing, or platters for groups of six to eight. Prices range from $12 for a starter of pea puree with butter poached egg yolk and go up to $38 for confit Spanish pork belly served with celeriac, apples and walnut.

But perhaps what will make Pluck stand out from the gamut of sharing plates eateries out there is the stellar resumes of its all-local kitchen team.

Mr Teo was the former head chef of Keong Saik Snacks (before its rebranding as The Library) and earned his chef stripes at Esquina and Jaan, while pastry chef Elaine Ng previously worked at Restaurant Daniel and Le Bernardin in New York. Sous chef Tan Kee Leng is an alumnus of progressive restaurants Bacchanalia and now-closed FiftyThree, and youthful chef de partie Aaron Leow recently completed stages at Noma and Studio in Copenhagen.

Rather than bank on pricey, premium ingredients such as wagyu beef and tuna belly - which translates to higher prices for customers - the philosophy in Pluck's kitchen is to transform ordinary ingredients with good technique, says Mr Teo. "Just because we have a casual set-up doesn't mean our food is anything less than fine dining standards."

"Even pubs in the UK can be Michelin star standard," he points out.


When Italian meets American
Buttero
54 Tras Street
6438 7737
Hours: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm (Mon-Sat), closed Sun

What do you get when you place an Italian cowboy in front of a barbecue grill in the middle of the American mid-West?

Rustic, uncomplicated cooking and big bold flavours, according to chef Logan Campbell - or, simply put, the menu at Buttero, his fortnight-old restaurant on hot-right-now Tras Street.

While some may think of Spaghetti Westerns - a genre of Western films produced by Italians in the 1960s - as cheesy, Mr Campbell hopes that his Italian meets American barbecue style of cooking will bring something fresh to the plate of Singaporean diners. Though not of Italian descent, the New Zealand-born 36-year-old has been cooking in top Italian kitchens in Australia such as Beppe's and now-closed Cicada by Peter Doyle for the last 17 years. Prior to his move here, he was the executive chef of two-hatted restaurant Lucio's, where he worked for 12 years. And while he isn't constraining himself to all-Italian ingredients at Buttero, the drive to highlight the best of any ingredient he's given is what makes his cuisine Italian, he says.

That, and the selection of largely homemade pasta in variants such as the paccheri and eggplant ragu with pine nuts and ricotta ($22) or the daily special of tagliettelle finished off with a rich prawn butter made with the briney, juicy goodness of prawn heads. Entrees veer more into international territory with cross-cultural fusions such as sashimi of kingfish served atop chickpea pancakes ($20), or the crumbed veal taco served with smoked garlic and Granny Smith apples ($19). Or, if you have the appetite of a macho gaucho, order off the section of large plates from the rotisserie, such as the crackling porchetta with braised beans ($32), or the 'dirty steak' ($34) of wagyu flank rubbed with Carolina-style mustard and vinegar based sauce and slapped directly onto hot coals.

"This is food that I like to eat - food that doesn't look like someone's been playing with your plate for the last hour," says Mr Campbell.

Black and white portraits of his extended family members hang on the 42-seater space's exposed brick walls, while Tuscan orange floor tiles and wooden dinner tables, bar perches and even an old piano by the entrance give the place the warmth of home. Graffiti artwork by Hong Kong street artist Cara Toes further up the playful vibe. "A lot of eateries want to be accessible but yet they use a lot of steel and concrete; they are so edgy that they make people feel uncomfortable being inside, or not cool enough to even step in," he explains.

With the Tras Street eatery as their flagship outlet, Mr Campbell and his two business partners, a Singaporean and a Singapore-based Japanese businessman who currently run another restaurant in Hong Kong, hope to open other Buttero spin-offs focusing on just pasta, barbecue or laid-back winebar in the coming months.

Why, giddy up, we say.


Global flavour
31 Bar & Kitchen 31 Keong Saik Road
6224 9141
Hours: 3.30pm-midnight (Mon-Thu), 3.30pm-1am (Fri-Sat)

If the recent multi-cultural restaurant invasion of Keong Saik Road could be encapsulated as a dish, 31 Bar & Kitchen's Beef in a Bun ($14) would probably be it. Behold thus: a slab of buttery soft Australian grain-fed beef cheek stewed in French red wine, and served sandwiched in a fluffy Chinese mantou with a dollop of English mustard. It is all very well and tasty, except it then begs a troubling question, just what cuisine type should we label this under? "We couldn't want to call ourself a bistro, because we aren't doing French food, or a tapas place, because we aren't Spanish," mulls Frenchmen Andre Rannaud, 44.

Hence, 31 Bar & Kitchen. The 31 is a nod to the shophouse's unit number, while the vague and all-encompassing Bar & Kitchen tag allows local chef Tan Chee Leong to work in global influences into his creations, such as the onglet skewers ($12), cooked to still-pink medium doneness and presented, satay-like, as easy-to-chew portions on a stick, or the South American-inflected mango and prawn ceviche ($10) served chilled straight out of a jar. Instead of peanuts, each beverage order comes with a complimentary side of local ikan bilis tossed with chilli and a squeeze of lime. "Keong Saik has a lot more to offer," says Mr Rannaud, who owns the three-week-old bar together with three other partners. He's also the director of wine import company, Estima Consulting, which previously ran French restaurant Provence in the same space. The latter closed in mid-January.

"We wanted something different, something completely not fussy. You can come here for a coffee in the afternoon, or a glass of wine before having dinner at other restaurants here, or have a late night bite with friends," says Mr Rannaud, who took three weeks to doll up the 50-seater space with Do-It-Yourself touches such as handmade lamps, bar tops and storage shelves fashioned out of old pallets and table tops made from wine cartons bearing labels from the Domaine de L'elephant, an Estima-owed winery in France. The French cheese and cold cut platters ($28 each) are staples on the menu, while the selection of starters will change regularly. For bigger appetites, there's a small array of heartier fare such as snapper fillet cooked en papilotte ($28), lamb rack ($35 half, $60 whole) or a 1kg cote de boeuf ($105) that should feed a ravenous group.

The wine list, naturally, is supplied by parent company Estima, so expect pocket-friendly, largely French labels, including the ever-popular Larmandier Bernier ($215) and Jacques Selosse bubbly ($278). Cocktails come with a twist too, like the Monkey 47 gin and tonic served in a oversized wine glass, or conjure your own by picking from a thoughtfully curated shortlist of uncommon spirits such as Babicka Wormwood vodka, Real Minero mezcal and French pastis. "Having an extensive menu doesn't always means it's good," says Mr Rannaud, "We want this place to be all about simplicity."

debyong@sph.com.sg

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