Ancient trade route to Tibet

Though we have returned to the warm embrace of our families in Singapore, a piece of our heart is lodged in the sacred Tsum Valley of Nepal, captivated by the thousands of smiles we got during the arduous yet haunting journey.

Tsum, also known as a beyul or sacred land, is one of the most secluded of Himalayan valleys, becoming accessible to tourists only in 2008. The valley, once part of Tibet, is different in its people and culture from other parts of Nepal.

The 4,000 or so inhabitants in the valley belong to an indigenous ethnic group known as Tsumbas. They maintain a Tibetan-Buddhist way of life, and due to the geographical characteristics of the area, their bond with Tibet is in many ways stronger than with Nepal.

Climbing 4,400m in seven days

Our journey required our team to push our physical and mental limits, conquering fears and dealing with extreme cold and exhaustion, while climbing to increasingly higher altitudes.

We were nine women under the banner of Women on a Mission, on a quest to raise awareness and funds for oppressed women. Fuelled by this aim, we gained a total of 4,400m altitude over 150km in fewer than seven days.

We started in Soti Khola, in the lowlands, visiting sacred caves and secluded villages. The ascent gave us views of vegetation that changed from thick tropical foliage to lush pine forests.

Continuing our journey on steep mountainous trails, we passed brightly coloured prayer wheels and stupas or small Buddhist shrines.

As we gained altitude, the temperatures plummeted while the landscape became thickly blanketed by powderysnow on the surrounding peaks.

We came across caravans of mules and yaks laden with supplies on their way to and from Tibet. The people in this region of Nepal have been trading with their Tibetan neighbours for centuries.

Moments for meditation

After an intense week of trekking, we reached Mu Gompa (3,700m) for a three-day retreat and a taste of monastic life in the century-old monastery.

Here, we set aside quiet moments for reflection, as we rested and prepared for our challenging day climb to the Ngula Dhojhyang Pass, perched at 5,093m, on the Nepalese-Tibetan border.

Finally, the time came for us to scale the pass. An intense 14-hour climb lay ahead.

Luckily, the weather was glorious.

A freak blizzard storm in the Annapurna mountain range in late October, just a few weeks before our climb.

At least 43 people were killed in one of the deadliest mountaineering disasters in Nepal's history.

A few other obstacles lay ahead of us on this highpass attempt: We had to cross six landslides in darknessand again on the way back.

Nevertheless, our determined team left Mu Gompa Monastery with head torches on at 4.30am in below freezing temperatures.

The cold was so intense that the water in our camelbaks remained frozen until 9am.

We crossed vast windy plains, traversing numerous icy rivers, scrambling over slippery rocks and small glaciers, and scaling a total of 1,400m at one go.

Unfurling the flag

Finally at noon, exhausted and cold, but euphoric beyond words, we made it to the Nepalese-Tibetan border at the highest point on the ancient trade route.

At the top, we unfurled a banner reaffirming our commitment to challenge ourselves and empower women around the world.

We stayed 20 minutes on the windy summit, drinking in the stunning views on both sides, then headed straight back down to Mu Gompa, racing to return before dark.

Finally 13 hours after our departure, as daylight began to fade, we walked into the monastery's dining hall, completely drained. But despite the overwhelming fatigue, our hearts were bursting with a deep sense of achievement and pride.

Laughter and tears

As one can imagine on such a journey, there was much laughter and often tears - of both triumph and frustration.

But what we discovered at the end of it all was something far more rewarding: We had come to know a people who cherished the simplicity of their lives over any material comfort or possession.

On numerous occasions along the trail, the people of Tsum welcomed us into their homes. Their hospitality, kindness and wisdom touched us in no small way.

Ultimately, we had embarked on this journey to support other mothers, daughters and sisters whose lives had been ripped apart by the horrors of war.

These are women who had been humiliated and raped, robbed of their dignity, and whose self-esteem and freedom had been taken away from them.

Even if we could not claim to truly understand their suffering, doing something out of the ordinary and dedicating it to these brave women made us feel like we were standing in solidarity with them. And it gave us wings to climb higher.

Despite the constant longing for clean toilets, hot running water, warm beds and comfort food - not to mention the rats that ran across our sleeping bags in the middle of the night in one of the lodges - all the little "hardships" we endured were forgotten once we were safely back home.

But what we did not forget was journeying in the land of the clouds.

From the many multi-coloured prayer flags fluttering in the wind high above our paths to the beautiful khata or silk scarves we received as parting gifts, the beauty of the Tsum Valley will remain etched in our memories forever.

Christine Amour-Levar is the founding partner of Women on a Mission (WOAM), a non-profit organisation that holds challenging, self-funded expeditions to remote locations to raise awareness and funds for women victims of violence.

For details, visit www.womenmission.com or www.facebook.com/WOAMSingapore

This article was published by, the Special Projects Unit, Marketing Division, SPH.

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