By Huang Lijie

It is in the heart of Singapore's Little India that Ms Janice Tan, 20, and her brother Christopher, 26, found the soul of Spain's bohemian city, Granada, and decided to open Zsofi Tapas Bar there.

The week-old tapas joint in a Dunlop Street shophouse was inspired by Mr Tan's backpacking trip to Spain in 2006.

It is the latest of at least seven nonIndian food and beverage (F&B) outlets that have sprouted in the last 18 months in a neighbourhood known gastronomically for its fish head curry and tandoori chicken.

Existing cheek by jowl with roadside grocery stores, sari shops and migrant workers, cosy non-Indian eateries such as French restaurant The Black Sheep Cafe in Mayo Street and Western vegetarian outlet Cafe Salivation in Syed Alwi Road, present the changing face of Little India.

These new neighbours are moving into the area after artsy folk, such as contemporary art space Post-Museum and The Museum of Shanghai Toys, both in Rowell Road, settled there a few years ago.

Zsofi Tapas Bar

Preceding them were backpacker hostels such as Prince Of Wales in Dunlop Street and The InnCrowd Backpackers Hostel, with two outlets in Dunlop Street and Campbell Lane, in the early noughties.

Little India clusters around a roughly 1km stretch of Serangoon Road and its historic conservation area is bounded by Sungei Road, Jalan Besar, Race Course Road and Rowell Road.

Owners of non-Indian F&B outlets in Little India say they are drawn to the area because of its cultural charm, affordable rent, proximity to the city centre and heavy human traffic.

Ms Tan, a communications undergraduate at the Nanyang Technological University and managing director of Zsofi, says: 'Against Little India's rustic and vibrant setting, and nearby backpacker hostels, Dunlop Street exudes the same bohemian vibe as Granada, which is a culturally rich city packed with students and backpackers.'

She picked the place over Holland Village and Dempsey Road because its four-figure monthly rent is half what landlords at the other two locations are asking for.

The 100-seat bar and beer garden, which offers a complimentary serving of Spanish nibbles such as ham-and-cheese potato fritters with every drink, cost nearly $200,000 to set up and is financed by the siblings' father, an airline pilot.

Ms Tan oversees the day-to-day operations while her civil servant brother offers creative input on the food and drinks menu.

For chef-owner R. Rathakrishnan, 38, of The Black Sheep Cafe, Little India's proximity to the city centre meant that the two-year-old outlet, which moved from Jalan Kelulut in the Seletar area to Mayo Street three weeks ago, would be able to attract a lunch crowd at its new home.

He adds: 'Another plus point is that stores selling fruits, vegetables and spices are everywhere in the neighbourhood so I have immediate access to the freshest produce. I use a lot of fruit in my cooking, such as mango relish that goes with duck confit, and the mangoes at Tekka Market are very good.'

Cafe Salivation, which sports a candy- coloured pink-and-orange interior and serves Western vegetarian fare such as Italian pasta and Mexican enchiladas, might be more at home in a chic mall, but owner Mrs Karen Raj, 52, chose to give it a go in Syed Alwi Road in July.

She was confident that the large number of visitors to Little India and its varied make-up, Singaporeans, expatriates and tourists, would bring in customers - and it has, with the cafe doing brisk business.

Indeed, while the area is synonymous with Indian food, diners appreciate having choices and the year-old Nepalese restaurant Mini Nepal Khana Khajana in Upper Dickson Road is thriving on tourists and Singaporeans seeking new epicurean experiences, says its managing director, Ms Puja Shreshta, 29.

Australian Ray Bond, 52, managing director of an information technology company, has lived in Singapore for 17 years and says the new non-Indian restaurants such as The Black Sheep Cafe are a welcome change from the Indian fare in the area.

He says: 'These restaurants make the place more interesting by offering different dining options.'

Advertising manager Li Yanfeng, 26, who has been to Zsofi, says: 'The casual concept of a tapas bar fits right in with Little India's relaxed vibe.'

Residents in the area, such as advertising executive Karen Chan, 30, who grew up in Little India and lives in a flat in nearby Cambridge Road, also welcome the influx of these non-Indian F&B outlets as they bring renewed buzz to the place.

Non-Indian F&B outlet at Little India

A regular at Cafe Domus in Owen Road, which serves desserts such as cheesecakes and ice cream, Ms Chan says: 'Domus is a quaint cafe that adds to the diverse character of Little India and attracts people looking for off-the-beaten-path spots to chill.'

Similarly, Mr Gunasagaran Kannaiyan, 44, who grew up in Little India and lives in a flat in Owen Road, cheers the presence of these new restaurants.

The owner of a jewellery store in Buffalo Road says: 'More people coming here to eat means more people might walk past my jewellery store and buy my stuff.'

Established food businesses in the area such as Muthu's Curry Restaurant, which has been in Little India for nearly 40 years, are also happy to have new neighbours.

Muthu's marketing director Veshali Visvanaath, 30, says: 'When new cuisines come into the area, they are a pull factor for people to come and try the food in the vicinity.'

Likewise, embracing the presence of these new eateries is Mr Woon Tien Wei, 33, curator of Post-Museum.

He says: 'Little India is all about diversity, be it socio-cultural or food, so these new types of cuisines will add to the area's character.'

But the owner of The Inncrowd Backpackers Hostel, who wants to be known as Hai, is less enthusiastic about the newcomers.

He says: 'The change in the neighbourhood is inevitable as cheaper rentals may draw new businesses into the area but the kampung (village) spirit of the place from before is lost.'

On whether the presence of these non-Indian restaurants might gradually erode Little India's cultural heritage, Mr Rajakumar Chandra, 50, chairman of the Little India Shopkeepers and Heritage Association, says it is unlikely (see story on facing page).

He says: 'Indians will need to come to Little India to do their shopping for things such as spices and foods that they can't get elsewhere. They will also continue to come to the temples in Little India.

'All these activities ensure that the area retains its character.'

And while non-Indian restaurants are sprouting in the area, new Indian restaurants, such as Kashmir in Race Course Road and Murugan Idli Shop in Syed Alwi Road, continue to open in the vicinity as well.

Dr Kevin Tan, 47, president of the Singapore Heritage Society, says: 'To have Indian restaurants and Western restaurants existing side by side is not a bad thing. It lends Little India a good culinary mix.'

Food Trail Check out these new eateries that have sprung up in Little India in the last 18 months. Zsofi Tapas Bar Where: 68 Dunlop Street, tel: 6297-5875 Open: 4pm to 1am (Mondays to Thursdays), 4pm to 2am (Friday and Saturdays), closed on Sundays What: This week-old tapas joint offers a complimentary serving of Spanish nibbles, including ham-and-cheese-filled potato fritters with every drink ordered. A house speciality cocktail is the Granada ($15), which includes the hazelnut liqueur Frangelico, low-fat vanilla ice cream and dark chocolate.   Mexican enchiladas The Black Sheep Cafe Where: 35 Mayo Street, tel: 9272-1842 Open: 11am to 2pm, (Tuesdays to Fridays), 6.30 to 10pm (Tuesdays to Sundays), closed on Mondays What: This French-style restaurant serves a mean duck confit on apple roesti with mango relish ($21). Also try its baked brie cheese starter($11), which is paired with a pomelo, orange, shallots and chilli compote.   Cafe Salivation Where: 75 Syed Alwi Road, tel: 6298-1412 Open: 10am to 11pm, daily What: Chic and cheery, this cafe offers a smorgasbord of Western vegetarian fare, including penne arabiata ($6) and Mexican enchiladas ($7). Mini Nepal Khana Khajana Where: 23 Upper Dickson Road, tel: 6293-5623 Open: 11am to 11.30pm (Mondays to Saturdays), 6 to 11.30pm (Sundays) What: Tuck into traditional Nepalese food at this cosy eatery, including chatamari ($5.50), a Nepalese pizza made using a rice flour dough. It is topped with egg, chicken, onion, garlic and spices and cooked on a hot iron plate. 3D Harmony Where: 8 Mayo Street, tel: 6295-5948 Open: 9 to 1am daily What: This restaurant specialises in African food such as gari ($12), a cassava stew, and deep-fried chicken and plaintain ($15). Food#03 Where: 109 Rowell Road, tel: 6396-7980 Open: 5 to 10pm (weekdays), noon to midnight (Saturdays), noon to 10pm (Sundays) What: A great spot for those looking to fill up on creative vegetarian food such as the cafe's signature tempeh burger ($11). Cafe Domus Where: 124 Owen Road, tel: 6392-5652, Open: 7pm to midnight, (Mondays to Thursdays), 7pm to 3am (Fridays and Saturdays), 4 to 11pm (Sundays) What: Chill out at this dessert cafe which offers yummy desserts such as homemade cheesecake ($8.50) and chocolate pecan pie ($7). It also has an ice cream buffet ($10) featuring 16 different flavours on Mondays. Duck confit from The Black Sheep Cafe

lijie@sph.com.sg

This article was first published in The Straits Times on Nov 8, 2008.

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