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Tagliatelle, black-eyed beans, caramelized onions
Black-eyed beans represent fecundity and abundance.
This, I assure you, is more flavoursome than it sounds. Claudia Roden, in her magical Book of Jewish Food, says black-eyed beans were often consumed in Egypt during this period for they represented fecundity and abundance. They taste earthy and look gorgeous too, in their black-striped beige outfits. If it weren't Rosh Hashanah or if you're not particularly concerned about the dietary restrictions, spritz over some lemon juice before serving.
Method Manage the beans first. These cook very quickly, so about 15 - 20 minutes in a 1.2 litres of water with half the chopped rosemary should do it. You want them just tender. Drain and keep aside. Toast the blue poppy seeds in a heavy-bottomed saucepan for just a minute or so, just till they pick up a breath of faint nuttiness. Tip these into a bowl and add the olive oil to the saucepan. Over a gentle flame, cook the onions for as long as it takes for them to not just shed opacity, but go melting and near-amber. Add the honey, half the chopped rosemary leaves, the cooked black-eyed beans, chicken stock and sherry and simmer for a final 5 - 7 minutes, till the beans have softened a trifle more and the stock has gone syrupy. Cook the tagliatelle in a vat of salted boiling water. Drain, return to the pot and toss in the oniony-beans, toasted poppy seeds, chopped parsley and butter. Taste, tweak and upend onto a platter, something inviting, celebratory. Anoint with a touch of verdant, peppery extra virgin olive oil and show it off to the big table. » Return to A Rosh Hashanah feast ![]() Tagliatelle, black-eyed beans, caramelized onions Stories and photos copyright © Bryan Koh, unless otherwise stated. Not to be reproduced without permission from the author. |
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