It was as if a precautionary cloud of discretion was in the air. Even before the world's bourses went into freefall, the spring/summer 2009 showings at the four main fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris over the last four weeks were more muted than usual.

From Calvin Klein's severely structural white origami dresses to the armour-like sheaths of Alexander McQueen, the mood this year seems not so much a spring fling as a sober awakening.

Remarking on the space age-style ruffles and breastplates of Gareth Pugh's collection, Guy Treaty of The New York Times remarked: 'Mr Pugh's show, like a surprising number of others in the days that followed, seemed defensive, as if designed in response to some unspecified menace.'

Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune also alluded to the uncertain economic times when she wrote about Karl

Lagerfeld's Chanel show: 'In a time of turbulence, there is no place like home. Lagerfeld made a smart move in bringing Chanel back to its luxurious basics.

'It felt right not to be straining too hard to be cool and to offer women - not to mention panicked retailers - a safe fashion haven.'

But it's not all austere lines and sombre colours, of course. Those inclined to find cheer in uncertainty can still revel in the circus-gypsy flamboyance of John Galliano or the extreme footwear fantasies of spiky, strappy, toeless shoes.

Prefer to seek comfort? Then count on slouchy comfort totes, spiffy hats and huge sunglasses and charm-like statement necklaces to buffer you from credit crunch blues.

If these don't work, then maybe the tribal-inspired collections from the likes of Louis Vuitton and Dior can work their sartorial magic in these trying times.

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SHEER
The runway pictures may seem risque, but there is no need to feel sheer terror over this if you are loathe to flash some flesh. Designers like Roberto Cavalli, Calvin Klein and John Galliano for Christian Dior have incorporated see-through fabrics into their designs as a way of conveying the lightness and airiness of spring without veering into flouncy florals.

ONE-SHOULDER
The asymmetrical toga top from spring/summer 2008 continues to be a strong trend for 2009 and it's easy to see why. It's a look that adds a touch of spice to all sorts of dresses from bandage mini frocks a la Herve Leger to Lanvin's pleated dresses and Versace's long gowns. Cristina Ortiz for Salvatore Ferragamo takes the look further with breezy off-shoulder jumpsuits (two trends in one).

MONOCHROME
What's black and white and read all over? News about the upcoming colours for spring, that's what. Usual spring bright colours aside, many designers also sent out creations in back-to-basics black and white, as if to channel the world economy's sombre mood. There is one way you can look on the bright side though - you can recycle fall's austere looks all the way through spring, scoring you some handy savings. From left: Chanel, Gareth Pugh, Dries Van Noten

PEEKABOO
The new erogenous zone, according to designers like Hannah MacGibbon for Chloe and Miuccia Prada, is the tummy. Seen on the Chloe and Alexander Wang runways were outfits with clever drapes and cutouts at the midsection, designed to show tantalising glimpses of skin. A word of warning - unless you have gym-bunny abs, stick to a teasing look instead of leaving nothing to the imagination.

JUMPSUITS
When Stella McCartney reintroduced the one-piece jumpsuit in spring/summer 2008, there was a collective gasp of horror. She stuck resolutely to it and now the look has finally taken off. It's easy to throw on, hides unsightly bulges and can be dressed up with a pair of heels. Best of all, modern cuts are more forgiving and come in a range of styles for anybody wanting to jump into one.

This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times on Oct 10, 2008.