Singaporean woman goes on motorbike-trip through Laos

Travelling at a respectable speed on a two-lane highway with the wind rushing past my ears, coupled with the sharp smell of exhaust fumes, I saw the scenery change from a gritty and dusty city into expansive emerald-green rice fields.

The transition was sudden, but this cityslicker welcomed it. I coaxed the motorbike to go faster, and the little beast shuddered as I twisted the throttle downwards. The thrill and the adrenaline rush are intoxicating.

In most South-east Asian countries, it's relatively safe to ride the ubiquitous motorbike in rural areas as traffic is scarce.

Thanks to the strength of the Singapore dollar, the region is one of the cheapest areas to travel to in the world.

I do not possess a valid Singapore motorbike licence, so whenever I'm overseas, I grab every chance I get to ride.

This time, I was racing through the Bolaven Plateau in southern Laos. We flew into the capital Vientiane and caught a sleeper night bus to Pakse. It was surprisingly comfortable and spotless, and reminded me of the Knight Bus from the Harry Potter series, sans the humongous chandelier and sliding beds.

My travelling companions and I rented three 100cc semi-automatic Honda scooters from Lankham Hotel in Pakse, which, despite its grand name, was spartan and dingy.

Wet and wild

Our first stop was Tad Champee waterfall, a 40-minute ride away.

The gushing waterfall flowed into a pool, but the water was too cold for me to attempt a swim. It didn't help that there were dark clouds looming in the distance.

The downside of riding a bike is being at the mercy of the elements. My exhilaration soon turned to terror when we got caught in a ferocious downpour that same afternoon.

It set my nerves on edge trying to make out the muddy path as large drops of rain

ferociously smacked against my faceplate. We barely made it to a wooden structure just outside of Tad Yuang, our second waterfall, before the rain intensified. The relentless deluge took about an hour to stop.

Beauty unveiled

But with the rain came the fog, and the aftermath of the downpour bathed Tad Yuang in an even more spectacular light - two cascading pillars of water fl owing into a river that flowed fast and furiously into an unseen valley.

After spending a night in Paksong, we headed towards Ban Beng. There, we visited Tat Lo, our third waterfall, which wasn't steep so we could clamber up and stand on dry parts for that picture-perfect moment.

We ended our mini road trip after our fourth and final waterfall, Phaxuam Cliff , before returning to Pakse, which took 40 minutes. This place was the most civilised of all the waterfalls, with numerous tourists and a modest cafe to boot. But Phaxuam was gorgeous and in my opinion, the most spectacular of the lot.

During our time on the road, we dodged dogs, pigs, cows, buffaloes, goats and ducks - all of which ambled slowly across the asphalt seemingly without a care in the world.

This was a far cry from the fastpaced metropolis of Singapore. Out in these remote parts, time seemed to fl ow viscously.

Local hospitality

What struck me most was that almost every Laotian we passed would exuberantly say hello with a friendly wave and joyous shouts of "Sabaidee!" Children would run after our bikes, gleefully and genuinely excited at seeing us.

Restaurants we stopped at for meals were extensions of homes, where little or no English was spoken, so we relied on gestures. Such interaction with the locals was heart-warming, and allowed us a genuine peek into their laid back world.

Riding a motorbike enabled me to slow down, stop, and be immersed in the landscape instead of just zooming through.

I admit I missed the creature comforts, cleanliness and convenience of Singapore, but I certainly didn't miss the traffic congestion and crowded shopping malls. The Laotians we met seemed contented with whatever little they had.

Every time I'm on a bus in Singapore, I imagine myself on the wide winding open roads of some remote South-east Asian countryside, where life is best viewed from the seat of a motorbike.

Getting there

I flew to Kuala Lumpur and then to Vientiane on Air Asia. Lao Airlines operates direct flights from Singapore to Vientiane thrice weekly.

Traveller's tips

• If you're travelling solo, request for a single berth when taking the night bus, lest you end up sharing a double berth with a stranger. There will be no issue if you're travelling in pairs.
• Request for a map from the motorbike rental company. More often than not it's just a sheet of paper but it helps. Also, signs for the waterfall can be easily missed so keep your eyes peeled at every paved road turnoff.
• Check that the motorbike wheels are fully inflated and do not have holes. Get them pumped if you're unsure. Most importantly, ensure the brakes are working.
• Some places will request that you leave your passport. Instead, leave a driving licence and a down payment.

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