Sole inheritor makes his mark

For shoe designer Edoardo Caovilla, footwear is not only a passion, but also a birthright.

The Italian, who grew up with a shoe factory as a personal playground, is the third-generation chief operating officer and creative director of designer shoe brand Rene Caovilla.

Founded in 1934 in Venice, the brand is known for its glittery and crystal-embellished high-heeled sandals. Available in Singapore since last September at multi-label store On Pedder, Rene Caovilla shoes cost $960 and upwards.

Despite his illustrious pedigree, it was not always a given that the 39-year-old would join the family business.

In fact, the Milan-based Mr Caovilla studied economics and worked in the finance industry for many years.

It was only five years ago, when he got a call from his father Rene - after whom the brand is named - that the wheels were set in motion.

"The fashion business is the only one with our name on it," he says, on why he decided to join the company when asked in 2010.

"It's the one that's closest to our hearts."

The multi-generational characteristic of the brand was also a unique element which he could not ignore, the designer adds, saying: "Sometimes, people ask me how much time it takes to create a pair of shoes and I tell them it's not a question of time. It's about how many generations of knowledge you put into a shoe."

At the beginning of his time at Rene Caovilla, he concentrated on solidifying the brand's reputation for glamorous, embellished evening shoes.

The brand also created such shoes for other brands, including Valentino, Chanel and Christian Dior, in the 1970s and 1980s.

However, in the five years since he took over, he has made his mark on the brand by introducing new and more casual silhouettes, such as espadrilles, boots and sneakers.

"The market, and how people use luxury goods, have changed. Offering these kinds of shoes allows us to go with a customer from morning to evening," he observes, on the changing habits of women in the 21st century.

Mr Caovilla oversees many aspects of the brand - from design to logistics - and also works with his father, who is still involved with the company. It is a perfect balance of "experience and new energy", he notes.

The respect he has for his father and grandfather is evident in the way he speaks about their trailblazing ways.

The Rene Caovilla logo conceived by his father, for instance, features a picture of a high-heeled sandal with a snake-like wraparound ankle strap.

"The ancient Romans and Egyptians used bracelets showing they belonged to a family or group. My father had this great idea, to have a similar sign of belonging.

"It shows that the women wearing our snake sandals belong to the Caovilla family."

The women he has in mind as friends and ambassadors of the brand are not necessarily celebrities, although the brand's products are worn by actresses and musicians, such as Sarah Jessica Parker and Taylor Swift, to many red-carpet events.

"The kind of woman I design for is a woman who is involved in activities, whether it is with family or business.

"She is sporty, but also sexy and cool," he says of their assertive clientele.

His design method is similarly enigmatic.

"The most beautiful creations come to me in the early morning when I get up, when I am between sleeping and waking."

Dreamy shoe-filled mornings aside, Mr Caovilla is just as focused on the business aspect of the company, growing the company on a global scale.

Asian markets now account for about a third of the brand's sales, signalling how far the brand has come from a 100km radius of activity around Venice, where the company was originally founded.

In the future, the Rene Caovilla brand may become a fourth-generation company, although Mr Caovilla - a married father of three children aged two, four and six - is in no rush to hand over the reigns.

As for his late grandfather, whose name he shares, Mr Caovilla thinks he would agree with the company's current direction.

"I think he's proud of us," he says. "After all, we are here due to his vision."

llim@sph.com.sg

This article was first published on Feb 13, 2015.
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