Style stars to look out for

JOHN GALLIANO AT MAISON MARGIELA

Who: John Galliano is a name in the fashion world that is fraught with controversy. A notable talent whose Central Saint Martins graduation collection was snapped up by London boutique Browns, he rose up the industry ranks to become creative director of French houses Givenchy and Christian Dior.

However, the designer, whose opulent, romantic style was underscored by his flamboyant get-ups, fell from grace in a similarly dramatic fashion.

He was fired from Dior and faced criminal charges after he was caught making anti-Semitic remarks in a drunken and medicated haze in 2011.

In the four years since, Galliano has largely stayed out of the limelight, working on his rehabilitation, with the only fashion-related activity being a short three-week stint as a visiting designer at Oscar de la Renta in 2013.

It made news when Galliano, 54, was announced as the new creative director of Maison Margiela last October, marking his return to the business.

Where: Maison Martin Margiela (the brand has since dropped the "Martin") is an avant garde fashion house named after its Belgian designer-founder, who was notorious for his desire to remain anonymous.

He left the brand in 2009, after the label was bought by fashion entrepreneur Renzo Rosso's Only The Brave group, which is also behind brands such as Marni and Viktor & Rolf.

Why: The appointment of Galliano at Margiela initially left some people scratching their heads due to the difference in style and aesthetic.

However, others have lauded the move as a savvy one by Rosso, who has brought an unprecedented amount of publicity to the quiet brand.

Galliano's first show for the brand (pictured) in London debuted to eager anticipation on Jan 12. While the designer did not break new ground, he showed off his chops.

Fashion critic Colin McDowell writes in a Business Of Fashion article: "This was unmistakably John Galliano at full creative stretch doing what he alone does correctly; blending the highest technical skills and taste to create looks that are not only sexy but also ethereal." It will be interesting to see whether Galliano - who appeared at the end of the show in an all-white Margiela lab coat - will delve into new territory.

PETER COPPING AT OSCAR DE LA RENTA

Who: A soft-spoken Englishman, Peter Copping is a designer's designer who has honed his skills in various fashion houses after his graduation from Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art.

He worked at French knitwear label Sonia Rykiel and spent more than a decade at Louis Vuitton, where he eventually rose to womenswear studio director under creative director Marc Jacobs.

In 2009, he joined Nina Ricci as creative director, with his work earning positive reviews over how he balanced the romantic legacy of Nina Ricci with a modern wearability. He has previously said, in an interview with Urban, that his own aesthetic is about combining softness and lightness with structure and tailoring.

Copping, 48, was for a while rumoured to be succeeding Oscar de la Renta at his eponymous label before the announcement was made last October, a week before de la Renta died.

Where: Dominican-American Oscar de la Renta was a ladies' man - not in the romantic sense, but in a sartorial one. The designer dressed first ladies, celebrities and women who lunch in luxurious, feminine clothing.

Gowns were an area the fashion brand excelled in - with their unabashed femininity. The unexpected death of de la Renta from cancer marks the first designer transition for the label.

Why: Copping's move to de la Renta has been widely praised by the industry as one which makes stylistic sense.

Nina Ricci and de la Renta both have strong, feminine aesthetics which Copping will surely build on.

While hand-picked by the founder himself, the designer's challenges will include figuring out how to keep the brand evolving and putting his own stamp on the house, without alienating its current loyal customer base. His first show for the brand will be the fall/winter 2015 collection for next month.

NADEGE VANHEE-CYBULSKI AT HERMES

Who: Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski comes from the ranks of unknown designers toiling behind the scenes at well-known brands.

The 36-year-old Frenchwoman, who studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, was part of the design studio of Belgian label Maison Martin Margiela, before joining French brand Celine. In 2011, she joined The Row, the luxe designer brand started by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, which has been feted by the fashion establishment.

Last July, Hermes announced that Vanhee-Cybulski would be the next artistic director of women's ready-to-wear, replacing designer Christophe Lemaire, who would be spending more time on his own brand.

Where: Designer label Hermes, a bastion of luxury, has been a house known for its subtle designs with rich detailing. Outgoing designer Lemaire has continued that tradition, with wearable and sophisticated clothing.

While less recognisable than Hermes' accessories and leather goods, its ready-to-wear serves as a good complement for the brand.

Why: In a statement announcing Vanhee-Cybulski's appointment, Hermes chief executive Axel Dumas, in addition to highlighting her track record, singled out the fact that she would be working full-time for Hermes. Perhaps the brand wanted somebody singularly focused on Hermes, as opposed to Lemaire, who worked on his own line simultaneously.

Aesthetically, Vanhee-Cybulski looks to be a great match. Margiela, Celine and The Row are all famously minimalist.

Products from The Row, like those from Hermes, also hover in the ultra-high-end range. Edgy is not what Hermes is looking for, so her challenge would be to put her stamp on the brand's wares, yet be able to stick closely to the house's look.

Her first show for the brand will be for the fall/winter 2015 collection, which debuts in March.

GUILLAUME HENRY AT NINA RICCI

Who: Designer Guillaume Henry has been gaining well-deserved attention for reviving French fashion label Carven, of which he is creative director, during his five-year tenure.

The designer gave the brand a cool-girl edge, balanced with feminine touches which took inspiration from the 1960s.

After studying at Ecole Superieure des Arts Appliques Duperre and Institut Francais de la Mode, the Frenchman held positions at designer labels Givenchy and Paule Ka.

In 2009, he became artistic director of Carven and brought the former haute couture house, which enjoyed its heyday in the 1950s and 1960s, up to date, by creating its first ready-to-wear collection.

Last October, following Peter Copping's departure from Nina Ricci to head Oscar de la Renta, it was announced that Henry, 36, would be taking over the Nina Ricci mantle.

He started his work with the brand this month.

Where: Nina Ricci, a French fashion house founded in 1932, is known for its feminine, Parisian-inspired style. Known for its romantic take on fashion, it makes full use of different textures, such as chiffon and lace, in soft silhouettes. The label is also famous for its perfumes, such as L'air du Temps.

Why: Henry's success with Carven proved his ability to shake up an old, dormant brand and enliven it with a coveted, fashionable relevancy.

It seems that the house of Nina Ricci could use that.

While the name itself is famous, the brand could be bigger, in terms of points of sale and sartorial impact.

Henry's style so far seems younger and edgier than Nina Ricci's traditional feminine fare, and these characteristics could be just the things to reinvigorate the brand.

His first collection for the house will debut with the fall/winter 2015 show in March.

JOHNNY COCA AT MULBERRY

Who: Under-the-radar Spanish designer Johnny Coca was most recently the accessories head design director at French label Celine.

While his name is fairly unknown, his designs are far more recognisable. During his four years at Celine, he helped create the Trapeze bag, one of several hit bags which the label has churned out in recent years.

Previously, the designer spent time working with Bally and Louis Vuitton on accessories. It was announced last November that Coca would become creative director of British brand Mulberry, a post left vacant since designer Emma Hill left in mid-2013.

While his own style aesthetic is not as well known, the stints at the various designer houses could have likely sharpened his take on modern luxury.

What: British brand Mulberry, a heritage label founded in 1971, has faced a host of troubles recently.

In 2013, it lost its creative director Emma Hill, who had reinvigorated the brand over six years and created hits inspired by stylish celebrities, such as the Alexa bag (above left) and the Del Rey bag (above right).

Chief executive Bruno Guillon, who unsuccessfully tried repositioning the brand as a high-end designer label by increasing prices, also exited the brand last March.

Sales fell as customers did not flock to the bags priced in the £2,000 (S$4,000) range.

Mulberry previously had more carryalls in the £500 range.

Why: Coca, who officially joins the brand in July, is coming into Mulberry at a pivotal moment.

He needs to bring his hit-making magic touch to revive Mulberry's former status as the leader in accessories.

Additionally, as creative director, he is responsible for all creative aspects of the house, including ready-to-wear.

While there are creative directors, such as Valentino's Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, who made the leap from accessories to clothing, it will still be challenging for a designer who has been used to operating on a smaller scale and in a limited domain.

CHRIS BENZ AT BILL BLASS

Who: American designer Chris Benz has been off the fashion radar of late. He took the last few seasons off his colourful eponymous label, which he started in 2007. The designer, who was previously known for his crop of bright pink hair, worked first at Marc Jacobs, then later at J.Crew.

In 2004, he was recognised with an emerging designer award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

The 33-year-old is active on social media, with more than 159,000 Twitter followers.

Last October, it was announced that he would become the new creative director of American fashion label Bill Blass. He fills a role left empty since 2012, when predecessor Jeffrey Monteiro exited.

What: Fashion brand Bill Blass is a pioneering name familiar to those in the industry. The American sportswear brand had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s, and was known for its clean, modern and wearable designs.

Its namesake founder died in 2002. Since then, it has undergone changes in ownership and creative heads.

Designers attached to Bill Blass in recent years included Peter Som and Michael Bastian, but the brand has yet to regain the excitement of yesteryear.

Why: The choice of Chris Benz at Bill Blass in an interesting one which could greatly benefit both parties.

Benz, who has been out of the limelight recently, gets to work with a name-brand fashion label and make a real mark. Bill Blass, on the other hand, gets to tap on Benz's youth and energy to wake up the sleepy house.

Both brand and designer are known for their modern take on fashion, but Benz may have to tone down his penchant for kooky colours a few notches.

His first collection for Bill Blass will launch this fall, with the spring/summer 2016 show.

It seems a good sign that the label is not rushing the debut of Benz and is giving him time to shape the next step of the brand's history.

ALESSANDRO MICHELE AT GUCCI

Who: Italian Alessandro Michele burst into the spotlight recently with the departure of Gucci's creative director Frida Giannini.

A graduate of Rome's Accademia di Costume e di Moda, Michele worked with fellow alumna Giannini at Fendi as a senior accessories designer.

The 42-year-old joined Gucci in 2002 and worked closely with the former Gucci creative head. Giannini's abrupt departure meant that the fall/winter 2015 menswear collection (pictured), which debuted earlier this month, was redesigned under his leadership.

It was also announced, after the show, that Michele had been appointed the new creative director.

Where: Gucci is the flagship Italian brand under luxury group Kering. Its famous interlocking GG logo and global presence reflect its standing as one of the biggest brands in fashion.

In the 1990s, with designer Tom Ford at the helm, the brand was known for sexy designs. Giannini, who succeeded him, focused on a more accessible, feminine style.

In recent years, sales have slowed down and the departure of its creative director and chief executive signal the brand's acknowledgement that it needs to shake things up.

Why: When Giannini departed the brand, insiders speculated on a number of star-designer names as her replacement. The house, instead, looked inwards for her replacement, which is an intriguing choice.

Brands such as Valentino, whose co-creative directors formerly worked under Mr Valentino, have proven that promoting from the inside can be a recipe for success. However, critics also wonder if someone from the inside will bring enough of a different perspective to steer the label in a new direction.

The menswear collection under Michele's direction, although not his official debut as creative director (that would be the womenswear show next month), did bring fresh energy to the brand, with newly androgynous designs for the fashion house.

However, more time and ensuing collections will be necessary to recognise Michele's aesthetic and whether it is enough to reboot Gucci.

This article was first published on Jan 30, 2015.
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