Spicy mentaiko don at Japanese Curry Express

Cheap Japanese food is mostly never good, while good Japanese food is hardly ever cheap.

But Japanese Curry Express defies the norm, especially with its Mentai Don ($10).

This dish comes with fresh slices of torched salmon over Japanese rice, topped with a generous dollop of mentaiko sauce.

For someone who loves a spicy kick with every meal, I appreciate the liberal dusting of chilli flakes over the dish.

It balances out the creamy sauce, which is made by the chefs every few days.

As I devour the Mentai Don and see the bowl empty quickly, I regret not upsizing my order - it costs an additional $3 for a bigger bowl - so that I can savour more of the delicious flavours.

I order the Pork Katsu Curry Rice ($7), only to see if it has any merit, given that the eatery touts Japanese curry in its name.

However, I have to admit that I am not the right person to judge Japanese curry.

Often, it is too sweet for my liking and I am put off by its pale shade.

The dish, complete with slices of fried pork, arrives piping hot.

I enjoy the meat - it is evenly breaded and fried well - but as expected, I am not a fan.

Still, there is much to like about Japanese Curry Express, which was opened in 2014 by two friends who used to work at a Japanese eatery.

The menu is extensive, with 48 items, including Ebi Fry Curry Rice ($7) and Char Siew Ramen ($7).

Also, many of the dishes are under $10, which is value for money.

You can order a few items to share without inflating the bill too much.

I enjoy the Spicy Tuna Salad ($7), which comes in a much bigger portion than I expect.

The fresh cold cucumber, served with the tuna, has a good crunch and balances the spiciness.

Co-owner Valen Khoo, 38, says he provides a generous serving as some of his customers do not eat rice at lunch.

This is a filling option for them.

Beyond the food, a part of Japanese Curry Express' charm is its location.

Parked amid a hodgepodge of businesses such as beauty salons and shops selling religious artefacts, the Japanese eatery is truly a hole-in-the-wall find.

The place already has its fans, so expect to wait for a table, especially during lunchtime.

But do not worry - the line moves fast as many people eat quickly and leave.

JAPANESE CURRY EXPRESS

03-04 Fortune Centre, 190 Middle Road, tel: 9689-6314, open: 11.30am to 3pm, 4.30pm to 8.30pm (Mondays to Saturdays), closed on Sundays and public holidays

Rating: 3.5/5 stars

natashaz@sph.com.sg

This article was first published on February 5, 2017.
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