Restaurant review: The Dirty Supper offers an intimate night with one of Singapore's best chefs

Gone are the days where we walk into restaurants wondering what they’ll have in store. Between Google reviews and PDF menus, research is just a tap away, and most take the time to make their decision beforehand.

Well, Chef Peter Smit is here to recapture the magic of surprise with the Dirty Supper, a collaborative dining experience between the folks at Dirty Hands, Low Tide, and Sago House. The secret menu changes each month, so you won’t be having what we had, but it’ll be good either way – trust us on that.

Hidden away behind an unlabelled door with an almost ominous green window-pane on the second floor of Low Tide, the secrecy adds suspense before you’ve been served your first plate. Inside, Peter captures the feeling of a chill night with your buddies perfectly, blurring the lines between the kitchen and the dining area in a living space booming with classic rap tracks from his childhood.

Just as the bartender, Jonathan Emmanuel, whips you up a cocktail of your choice, Peter starts the night with an addictive combination of freshly Milk Bread and Whipped Black Garlic Butter. The dishes from here on are all paired with their own cocktail – both designed to taste good, but incomplete without the other.

Peter whips up some Dirty Snacks, a plate of small tarts and cracker-like bites, tying a blend of flavours and textures together in a pretty circle. Paired with a boozy concoction of Dragonfruit, Jasmine, and Stranger and Sons Gin, the floral notes of the cocktail add to the cacophony of flavours already in the dish.

Each dish is also presented with gorgeous handmade plates from Dirty Hands, with an emphasis placed on zero-waste – a ‘broken’ plate is used to split the bread and butter into two halves combined.

Next comes a Dashi-Poached Swimmer Crab with Buttermilk, Chicken Fat, and Globe Artichoke. The freshness of the crab meat is complemented with the richness of the buttermilk and chicken fat, with the artichoke adding some needed texture to the affair. This dish comes with a refreshing Hendrick’s Gin with Cucumber and Samphire tipple, rounding out the flavours of the food.

Chef Peter then slides up the Braised Ox Tongue with Kohlrabi, Water Chestnut, and Baby Gem lettuce, letting the deep flavours of the ox tongue take centre-stage while the accoutrements keep things interesting with each bite. The seemingly odd combination of Bacardi Carta Blanca, Black Garlic, and White Chocolate blew us away with the first sip. Unconventional ingredients dominate this course, and it does so spectacularly.

Getting into the mains, Aged Threadfin with Leek and Salsa Verde is served with Reyka Vodka with Lemongrass and Yuzu Ponzu. The fish felt a bit lackluster despite the added punch from the ageing process, though this is quickly remedied with a flush of the yuzu ponzu in the cocktail. A classic combination thrown together in an unexpected fashion.

A wonderfully plated Duck Breast with Fermented Fig, Broccolini, and Mustard Seed comes after, featuring locally-sourced duck that’s oh-so-succulent and flavourful. The mildly gamey aftertaste is cut through with the sweetness of fruit in both the dish and the cocktail of Smokey Monkey Shoulder Whiskey, Mixed berries, and Rosemary.

After several courses of unknown and unique eats, we were excited to see how Peter would put his creative spin on dessert and he didn’t disappoint. A bit more conventional, but they knock the finale out of the park with a 40 Layer Apple Terrine with Bee Pollen and Salted Caramel.

Managing the delicate balance of sweetness and tartness from the apple, the strong flavours melded wonderfully with the creamy salted caramel quenelle. This time, Jonathan pours up a cocktail of Pineapple, Milagro Silver Tequila, and Lime, adding a sour edge that completes the satisfaction.

With the dim lighting, the warmly decorated interior, and the comfortable chatter with the chef and bartender as you make your way through the courses, the Dirty Supper forges a friendly and inviting environment for your meal, and it’s one that will keep you coming back.

The Dirty Supper is located at Level 2, 98 Club St, Singapore 069467. Open Wed-Sat, two seatings from 6pm. The 6-Course Tasting Menu is priced at S$128 and the 6-Course Pairing Menu at S$200, with bookings available online at 10 pax per seating.

This article was first published in City Nomads.