Restaurant review: Milano Pizza & Wine puts a fresh take on neo-Neopolitan and Sicilian grandma pizzas at Craig Road

When we think of pizza , an old film reel featuring pizza dough being shoved in a wood fired oven over the symphonic tune of ‘That’s Amore’ by Dean Martin, plays in our head. Anyone else? No? Maybe we’ve been watching too many movies.

Nonetheless, there’s no denying Singaporeans’ undying passion for Italian cuisine. And here to indulge our dough cravings is another buzzy pizza place in town: Milano Pizza & Wine.

A new addition to Craig Road’s lively entourage of restaurants and bars, Milano Pizza & Wine is the brainchild of SJS Group – the folks behind well-loved Italian concepts like Pasta Bar and Bar Milano. Working with world-renowned pizzaiolo & best-selling author Anthony “Pizza Czar” Falco, this pizza place specializes in artisanal 400-degree sourdough Neo-Neopolitan and Sicilian Grandma pizzas, as well an Italian-forward selection of natural and organic biodynamic wines.

With its exterior covered in white walls, a minimalist signboard and shaded patio umbrellas, the shophouse restaurant is quite easy to miss. But don’t let the bland exterior fool you. As you enter the dimly lit restaurant, you’re greeted by a funky space, incorporating modern European interiors, elongated booth seats, groovy music, and romantic candlelight.

As your eyes start to wander, you’ll notice eclectic accent pieces like low-hanging pink lamps with frills, quirky portraits of dogs in royal clothing, and mirrors galore. Accompanied by the chitter-chatter and laughter of lively customers, the restaurant maintains a laidback and homely ambience.

From sangria to spritzes, Milano whips up a selection of cocktails like the Pinot Grigio Cucumber Spritz ($44 per jug for two pax). This easy-drinking refresher combines the bright and fruity flavours of Pinot Grigio, lime, honey, cucumber and mint – almost resembling a watered-down mojito.

For starters, expect a small selection of veggie-forward plates from salad to brussel sprouts. Our Handmade 125G Burrata ($28) comes served with cherry tomatoes, arugula, and pesto, bursting with light, fresh flavours and creamy mouthfeel. We also enjoyed the accompanying pane fresca, a doughy and dense bread with a distinctive sourdough tang.

Of course, the sourdough pizzas are the star of the show. Slow-fermented for 24 hours to full-flavoured chewiness, the pizzas here come in Sicilian Grandma and Neo-Neopolitan renditions, with funky fusion toppings from potato and caviar to onsen egg, Mexican street corn, and even char siu.

ALSO READ: Sushi at Taiga Dining is all about au natural ingredients

The Mortadella & Burrata Sicilian Grandma Pizza ($27) features a deep-dish crust, topped with fresh stracciatella cheese and slices of mortadella. Painstakingly rested and folded over for a 24-hour period, the crust is certainly unusual – two inches of dense sourdough with an almost mash-like texture. This is one for folks who love pizza for the dough as much as the toppings.

We had a taste of their neo-Neapolitan pizzas as well with their Upside-Down Vodka Sauce & Calabrese ($28). The crust offers a tangy chew – if rather less airy as expected – blanketed in generous cheese and pepperoni toppings.

With such hearty fillings, the Commune Of Buttons Pretty Fun Pet Nat Rose offers a welcome pairing to wash it all down, with its burst of fruity and floral flavours. Want to pick out a bottle or two? Stroll over to the glass-panelled wine section and have a browse through their collection, focusing on indigenous grapes from Italy.

The dessert selection is modest, but don’t overlook it. The Amalfi Lemon Meringue Pie ($18) is a generously-sized tart with distinctive lemon flavours that blend beautifully with the basil cream, encased by a sweet, crunchy crust. Pizza, vino, and sweet treats to top it all off – what more could we ask for a hangout spot with friends or a romantic candlelit date?

ALSO READ: Restaurant review: Minimal waste meets wagyu decadence at Black Cow in South Beach Avenue

Milano Pizza & Wine is located at 10 Craig Road, Singapore 089370. Open Mon-Wed 6pm-10.30pm, Thurs-Sun 12pm-2pm & 6pm-10.30pm.

This article was first published in City Nomads.