The world's only desert where you can swim for miles, and it only appears for months

Imagine standing in the middle of a vast, white desert, with soft dunes under a blazing sky that stretches as far as the eye can see. Now imagine them filled with turquoise lagoons, deep enough to swim in. Sounds like a mirage, right?

The desert that comes alive

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Welcome to Lencois Maranhenses National Park: Brazil’s desert that comes alive.

For half the year, this 1,550-square-kilometre landscape is a sea of white dunes. But from January to June, seasonal rains fill the valleys between dunes, forming thousands of clear lagoons.

Iconic lagoons

Among the most famous are Lagoa Azul (Blue Lagoon) and Lagoa Bonita (Beautiful Lagoon), located near Barreirinhas in the Small Lencois, a compact and equally enchanting version of the park, ideal for those with less time. Additionally, there are Lagoa Betania, Lagoa America, and Lagoa Gaivota in Santo Amaro.

When to visit

Locals say the best time to visit is June to September, when the lagoons are at their fullest — a spectacle teeming with scarlet ibises, fish, and dragonflies. By late September, the pools start shrinking, leaving behind glistening white sands once again.

Fun activities for all ages

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Dune adventures and sandboarding

Hike among the dunes or swim in the lagoons of Lagoa Bonita or Lagoa Azul (often 27 to 30 degrees Celsius). Families can paddle in peaceful pools or enjoy sandboarding, with rentals readily available.

4×4 Jeep tours

From Barreirinhas, you can book circuits that hit the famous lagoons. A typical Lagoa Azul circuit (morning) or Lagoa Bonita circuit (afternoon) lasts around four to five hours, and includes hotel pickup and drop-off. 

Kayaking and multi-day treks

Craving more adventure? Licensed operators offer kayak tours through mangroves and lagoons, as well as multi-day kayak treks along rivers like the Rio Alegre, complete with camping under the stars.

The ibis flock at sunset

Witness the breathtaking sight of scarlet ibises flying at sunset during the Revoada dos Guaras (Ibis Flock), at the Parnaiba Delta and along the coast.

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Getting there

• Fly into Marechal Cunha Machado International Airport (SLZ) in Sao Luis.
• Then travel about 260 km to Barreirinhas by bus or private transfer.
• From Barreirinhas, you can explore the park with 4×4 tours or by boat.

Main Distances:

• From Sao Luis to Barreirinhas: 250 km (approximately four hours)
• From Sao Luis to Santo Amaro: 210 km (approximately three hours 30 minutes)

There’s something deeply poetic about Lencois Maranhenses: Where desert meets rain, and stillness meets adventure. For six fleeting months each year, this “desert of bedsheets” (as its name translates) transforms into one of the world’s most surreal landscapes.

So, pack your swimsuit, charge your camera, and prepare to walk through a dream.

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This article was first published in Wego.